Vision 2+ wifi units fix and why they are dying.
- Thread starter burlbark
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That's my little Marco Polo tracking device which is attached with velcro.
The manufacturer told me the signal would be weakest if the antenna winds up horizontally at the crash site, so I figured mounting the thin antenna down the leg will result in it most-likely winding up at a 45 degree angle, at worst -- unless the bird is hanging from a branch somewhere at a 90-degree angle. Haven't had to use it yet and hope to never have to.
The manufacturer told me the signal would be weakest if the antenna winds up horizontally at the crash site, so I figured mounting the thin antenna down the leg will result in it most-likely winding up at a 45 degree angle, at worst -- unless the bird is hanging from a branch somewhere at a 90-degree angle. Haven't had to use it yet and hope to never have to.
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A friend of my has a elektroshop. The cost of the fan was 4 euro.It's still working.I have fly almost every day since i put the fan in the phamtom.
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Hi all. Excuse me repeat that need help. After several flights of my P2 V+ ceased to broadcast the video, everything works fine telemetry and video have not. I understand you have to do Reboly chip or chip warm up and what specifically do not know.
Put the P2V+ in the freezer now video feeed works
With regard to the "freezer test" mentioned in above thread, I'm wondering if there is a connection in the wifi module that can be repaired. The freeze apparently tweaked a connection or two causing the module to work until it warmed up again.
Is it possible to do a "solder reflow" in an oven and fix the problem? Would be willing to try it doesn't look to be much to lose. Recommended temperature and time?
With regard to the "freezer test" mentioned in above thread, I'm wondering if there is a connection in the wifi module that can be repaired. The freeze apparently tweaked a connection or two causing the module to work until it warmed up again.
Is it possible to do a "solder reflow" in an oven and fix the problem? Would be willing to try it doesn't look to be much to lose. Recommended temperature and time?
Anyone have a feel for this? Putting the wifi in the freezer apparently contracted the board and components enough to let connections make contact and begin working correctly. Makes me think that the board could possibly be repaired.
Hi all,
I just did this mod (adding heat paste to the wifi module) and I now lost quite a bit of FPV (down from approx 500 to approx 300 Meters) does anybody have an idea what could cause this. One thing I did was cut the copper tape: Could this be the culprit, and if yes would some aluminum foil instead of copper also work?
Also secondly: I also have an already fried wifi module, was anybody able to bring those back to life.. I'm kinda confused whether I should stick it in the oven or the freezer ;-)
Thanks in advance for any info for the above
I just did this mod (adding heat paste to the wifi module) and I now lost quite a bit of FPV (down from approx 500 to approx 300 Meters) does anybody have an idea what could cause this. One thing I did was cut the copper tape: Could this be the culprit, and if yes would some aluminum foil instead of copper also work?
Also secondly: I also have an already fried wifi module, was anybody able to bring those back to life.. I'm kinda confused whether I should stick it in the oven or the freezer ;-)
Thanks in advance for any info for the above
Heating anything electronic is bad! Resoldering joints, one at a time, is the best solution to a thermally intermittent connection.
Or, you can locate an intermittent joint with "Freeze Spray", available at most electronic stores or online. You want to freeze small locations on the board, to see if the cold causes the connection to work again, then you know which joints to resolder.
Or, you can locate an intermittent joint with "Freeze Spray", available at most electronic stores or online. You want to freeze small locations on the board, to see if the cold causes the connection to work again, then you know which joints to resolder.
Don't know what the problem would be, but I removed the copper tape completely on mine with no bad effect, I know of someone else who done the same, also with o bad effect. Good luck
fwiw, the main chip is the source of the heat. Keep this cool and you'll reduce the FPV issue.
Regarding the ArcticSilver thermal paste, it's somewhat electrically conductive. Any excess getting between the board and chip will have issues... The white grease originally used was silicone, not sure it was all to effective, but was less conductive. Clean either with alcohol, critical to clean from under the chip.
I prefer a thermal pad rather than a grease, as the material stays in place and performance is higher based on gap distances. The gap between the cover and the chip is fairly signification when talking thermal grease being effective. Further contact pressure is another factor to help thermal whatever be more effective.
It was mentioned back when that the chip could be re-balled and then reattached to the board. Never knew if anyone ever performed that repair...and was a success.
I have the V1 wifi module, I drilled out like the V2 (swiss cheese mod). I applied a supplemental heatsink to the wifi cover and have been problem free since the mod. Search this thread for pictures and description if interested.
3M Copper Shielding tape (RF shielding) is designed to electrical bond the two halves together, the adhesive is conductive. You may or may not have an issue if removed, depends on any gaps of the two mating parts. Aluminum tape, the adhesive is not designed for an electrical bond...ymmv
Regarding the ArcticSilver thermal paste, it's somewhat electrically conductive. Any excess getting between the board and chip will have issues... The white grease originally used was silicone, not sure it was all to effective, but was less conductive. Clean either with alcohol, critical to clean from under the chip.
I prefer a thermal pad rather than a grease, as the material stays in place and performance is higher based on gap distances. The gap between the cover and the chip is fairly signification when talking thermal grease being effective. Further contact pressure is another factor to help thermal whatever be more effective.
It was mentioned back when that the chip could be re-balled and then reattached to the board. Never knew if anyone ever performed that repair...and was a success.
I have the V1 wifi module, I drilled out like the V2 (swiss cheese mod). I applied a supplemental heatsink to the wifi cover and have been problem free since the mod. Search this thread for pictures and description if interested.
3M Copper Shielding tape (RF shielding) is designed to electrical bond the two halves together, the adhesive is conductive. You may or may not have an issue if removed, depends on any gaps of the two mating parts. Aluminum tape, the adhesive is not designed for an electrical bond...ymmv
Anyone out there interested in trading, I need a new WiFi module for my p2v+ v3.0. And im offering a brand new Aries x10 blackbird quad with 2 batteries and extra props to trade for a WiFi module.
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Hey Rich. I've obtained a line of very fine heatsink fins from an old laptop I was tossing and am considering attaching them to the top of my WiFi module in much the same fashion you did. What did you use to adhere it to the unit? I would assume Arctic Silver, but I don't know if that hardens and holds.
Hay back at you....
The copper BGA HS I purchased had the 3M thermal tape pre-attached. It's worked well thermally and has not come loose. FrozenCPU has the material is small quantities if needed. Find the thinnest available.
The key in my mod was cutting the HS to fit the "diamond" shaped recessed area. The clearance from the wifi module to the P2 cover is fairly tight, IIRC about 8mm, otherwise you'd be pressing the cover down to reassemble and possibly poke the GPS unit. My install is compressing the HS slightly, indentions are evident on the foam GPS shielding. Again, no ill effect from the contact since it is running cooler overall.
fwiw, I did vent my bird further, basically enlarging the already existing vents around the bird. Air flow....is the key to resolving the wifi module's short comings.
Good luck!
The copper BGA HS I purchased had the 3M thermal tape pre-attached. It's worked well thermally and has not come loose. FrozenCPU has the material is small quantities if needed. Find the thinnest available.
The key in my mod was cutting the HS to fit the "diamond" shaped recessed area. The clearance from the wifi module to the P2 cover is fairly tight, IIRC about 8mm, otherwise you'd be pressing the cover down to reassemble and possibly poke the GPS unit. My install is compressing the HS slightly, indentions are evident on the foam GPS shielding. Again, no ill effect from the contact since it is running cooler overall.
fwiw, I did vent my bird further, basically enlarging the already existing vents around the bird. Air flow....is the key to resolving the wifi module's short comings.
Good luck!
Thanks for the info, Rich. I haven't opened her up yet to check the clearance with the fins, but hopefully they fit. I also have an "X" cut of flexible copper roof flashing as my GPS shield that will help protect it from being poked while attempting the mod. I also previously removed every other vent opening divide for better air circulation.
Looking for some help diagnosing. I've got a P2vision+ v3.0 bird fly's fine I've got video and pics, live view all good but no telemetry, no battery life indicator none of the important stuff .. Any help would be appreciated
Check your little grey wires going to the gimbal. Fully seated, loose pin or cut wire. You've had a little crash, right?
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