Should I be shooting stills in 4:3 aspect ratio for the best quality?

[Ripper7620]

Or is the aspect ratio irrelevant? I much prefer the look of 16:9, but I've heard somewhere 4:3 is best for quality, is this correct?

 

[flyboy73]

For quality, the aspect ratio is irrelevant. You would be better off using 4:3 for maximum area capture, then crop to 16:9 if that is your preference for the final output.

 

[Oso]

This is what we often tell people when they ask this question.
P4: shoot 4:3 and choose the crop area yourself.
P4P: shoot 3:2 and choose the crop area yourself.


Note - edited with the clarification from Meta4

 

[Ripper7620]

For quality, the aspect ratio is irrelevant. You would be better off using 4:3 for maximum area capture, then crop to 16:9 if that is your preference for the final output.

Thank you very much, I appreciate the reply.

 

[$gambino$]

I thought 3:2 was best, uses the whole sensor.... I prefer the 16:9 look also

 

[Meta4]

Or is the aspect ratio irrelevant? I much prefer the look of 16:9, but I've heard somewhere 4:3 is best for quality, is this correct?

People get confused because this is different for the original P4 and the newer P4 pro models.
The maximum image size for the original Phantom 4 is 4000 x 3000 which you get shooting 4:3 (12MP)
But if you have a P4 pro, your biggest image size is when shooting at 3:2 Aspect Ratio: 5472 × 3648 (20MP).

For a photographer it makes sense to shoot at the highest resolution possible.
This gives you options to crop as you see fit when you get home.
It makes no sense to have the camera cropping part of the image and taking your options away.

 

[whitelineNI]

Yeah it's 3:2 for the max image size on the p4pro

 

[AWD]

Thanks for the info.

Learned something today!

AD

 

[Paul2660]

I agree 3:2 uses max sensor, however it also has maximum retrofocus distortion. The P4 Pro camera has a lot of this towards the edges, objects become elongated and flattened. It's not as much a problem if you are just taking a still of a single scene. But for manual pano shooting, you can find that the 4:3 ration will work better. Especially if you are going up. But retro focus distortion can show up in buildings, cars, anything towards the edge of the frame and if you eye has a know dimension of these objects, it can be come quite noticeable.

4:3 also gives you a bit more top and bottom capture at the expense of the edge width, so I still prefer the 4:3 as I can grab any extra edge in a pano series.

Also, most of the P4 cameras I have used or seen picture from tend to have a bit of corner softness, even in optimum aperture ranges of F 3.5 to 5.6, if you are set to 3:2 you will see the most of this, where as the 4:3 will crop out a bit.

I realize you can crop in post, but I just prefer the 4:3 since most of my shots are panos, usually 3 shots across but sometimes 4. I don't use the automatic pano feature for several reasons, (props are always captured with a P4 and you can only capture 1 exposure, I prefer AEB).

Paul C

 

[With The Birds]

I agree 3:2 uses max sensor, however it also has maximum retrofocus distortion. The P4 Pro camera has a lot of this towards the edges, objects become elongated and flattened. It's not as much a problem if you are just taking a still of a single scene. But for manual pano shooting, you can find that the 4:3 ration will work better. Especially if you are going up. But retro focus distortion can show up in buildings, cars, anything towards the edge of the frame and if you eye has a know dimension of these objects, it can be come quite noticeable.

4:3 also gives you a bit more top and bottom capture at the expense of the edge width, so I still prefer the 4:3 as I can grab any extra edge in a pano series.

Also, most of the P4 cameras I have used or seen picture from tend to have a bit of corner softness, even in optimum aperture ranges of F 3.5 to 5.6, if you are set to 3:2 you will see the most of this, where as the 4:3 will crop out a bit.

I realize you can crop in post, but I just prefer the 4:3 since most of my shots are panos, usually 3 shots across but sometimes 4. I don't use the automatic pano feature for several reasons, (props are always captured with a P4 and you can only capture 1 exposure, I prefer AEB).

Paul C

Are you sure the significant frame edge distortion is attributed to retro focus? The absence of a mirror box suggests that the 8.8mm focal length could be obtained absent the requirement to implement a reverse telephoto lens design. What we are likely dealing with are decisions made around weight and cost constraints. It’s s a shame all the pixels aren’t usable.

 

[Paul2660]

It may be due to something else, however most wides have some form of retrofocus distortion, even wides not meant for a mirrorbox. So I may have the wrong term, as retrofocus wides are most common around a mirrorbox DSLR design. However I also use a technical camera, Acra Swiss and both the 28mm and 32mm (especially the 32mm) wides by Rodenstock have similar distortion. It's OK with the lens centered, however if you shift at all, the objects towards the edge become short, elongated and flattened.

I see similar issues with my P4 Pro lenses, mainly the elongation towards the edge of the frame. Many won't notice it, and I really don't unless I am shooting something with known dimensions to the human eye, i.e. car, building, streets etc. Anything with regular lines or buildings where they are elongated. In natural settings the same distortion is there, it's just hard to see as no one really knows what a rock really looks like unless there were standing right next to you.

There also very well may be a lot of sample variation in the DJI lenses, and I have no idea what they use for elements, plastic or glass.

The 20MP resolution makes up for a lot IMO as if you have a good centered lens the hyperfocal range is huge and you should see good details corner to corner by F4 on the Pro.

I just found with stitching together manual panos the 4:3 ratio adds more sky (height) and less width (I am assuming it's an internal crop like with a DSLR as you don't the full 20MP more like 18)

I go back and forth as there are times I want as many pixels as I can get, and don't want to pan.

Paul C

 

[ClaudioNC]

Acra Swiss

No please, Pual2660!

 

[Melvoid]

Everyone is referring to these ratios in P4... what about P3? I currently have it set for 16x9 'cuz it fits the computer monitor. Is 4x3 or 3x2 better on ANY camera? What about my DSLR?

 

[ribjig]

I agree 3:2 uses max sensor, however it also has maximum retrofocus distortion. The P4 Pro camera has a lot of this towards the edges, objects become elongated and flattened.

What is difference between "retrofocus distortion" & diffraction?

 

[Meta4]

Everyone is referring to these ratios in P4... what about P3? I currently have it set for 16x9 'cuz it fits the computer monitor.

The cameras used in the P3 models have a maximum picture area of 4000 x 3000 so an aspect ratio of 4:3 will give the maximum image area.
Shooting with any other aspect ration is letting the camera chop off some of the top and bottom of the image.

Is 4x3 or 3x2 better on ANY camera? What about my DSLR?

It's all going to depend on the resolution and aspect ratio of the sensor.

 

[With The Birds]

Everyone is referring to these ratios in P4... what about P3? I currently have it set for 16x9 'cuz it fits the computer monitor. Is 4x3 or 3x2 better on ANY camera? What about my DSLR?

Your DSLR is almost certainly 3:2- full frame, APSC and H are all 3:2.

 

[Paul2660]

People get confused because this is different for the original P4 and the newer P4 pro models.
The maximum image size for the original Phantom 4 is 4000 x 3000 which you get shooting 4:3 (12MP)
But if you have a P4 pro, your biggest image size is when shooting at 3:2 Aspect Ratio: 5472 × 3648 (20MP).

For a photographer it makes sense to shoot at the highest resolution possible.
This gives you options to crop as you see fit when you get home.
It makes no sense to have the camera cropping part of the image and taking your options away.

Actually it does make sense to shoot in the cropped format, it you are working in stitching, and creating panos, the 4:3 takes out the worst of the distortion, which is extreme on the P4 camera towards the edges in 3:2. I would rather just shoot cropped and not add more work in post. 4:3 images when stitched together can approach 50 to 60MP final output which is plenty. Where as if you just use the 3:2 and then try to stitch together the images you are odds are going to run into issues with any buildings, or other object with hard true lines. And or the stitching engine will sometimes just have trouble putting the images together. What ever works best for you.

Most of my P4 pans are 3 x 3 and in two rows. I don't use the 9 shot pano feature as you can't bracket and the props will always show, waste of time for me.

I fully agree if you are just shooting a single series, no reason not to use 3:2 and get the full 20MP resolution, and crop in post.

Paul C

 

[ribjig]

Actually it does make sense to shoot in the cropped format, it you are working in stitching, and creating panos, the 4:3 takes out the worst of the distortion, which is extreme on the P4 camera towards the edges in 3:2

Degree of diffraction highly variable lens to lens.
I've had (1) P4P+ body but (5) lenses under warranty.
(3) lenses were replacements due to too much diffraction
in (2) lenses. One replacement lens still had too much diffraction.
Then good lens broke due to warranty-covered accident & was replaced.
IMO, the better lenses with least diffraction can be stitched without issues
almost edge-to-edge as they show very low diffraction at edges.
Cropping might be needed for outer 5% or ?57:40? crop...

 

[Paul2660]

What is difference between "retrofocus distortion" & diffraction?

Diffraction is the overall softening of an image as you approach the smaller apertures. Most cameras will show it by F14 or F16. Many photographers will still work in these ranges to get better depth of field. The P4 sensor IMO shows diffraction by F 6.3 and by F11 is really needing some help in post. I tend to stay at F 4 to 5.6 if I can. Diffraction is also effected by pixel size and the pixels on the 1" sensor are pretty small so IMO diffraction will show sooner than later.

Retrofocus distortion, is an effect that is created by most non Symmetrical wide angle lenses. Objects towards the edge of the frame will become shorter/fatter and elongated. On the P4 in 3:2 this is very apparent at least on my two drones. It's made worse if the lens is angled down or up at all off center and most times I am angled a bit down to avoid prop shadows. Retrofocus lenses are mainly designed for mirror boxes on SLR's but as I posted previously, even some of the best glass from Rodenstock shows it. So it's not a surprise to see some of it in a P4 lens/camera. Just shoot a scene with a truck or car in it with the car/truck towards the edge of the frame, look at the tires (are they still round or oblong) and the vehicle itself will also be shortened and elongated. In nature the problem is still present, however not as noticed since the human eye is not trained like it is on man made subjects, with known dimensions.

Paul C

 

[Paul2660]

Degree of diffraction highly variable lens to lens.
I've had (1) P4P+ body but (5) lenses under warranty.
(3) lenses were replacements due to too much diffraction
in (2) lenses. One replacement lens had too much diffraction.
One replacement lens broke due to warranty-covered accident...
IMO, the better lenses with least diffraction can be stitched without issues...

Yes there is huge sample variation with DJI in their optics I fully agree. I have given up trying to find a P4 without issues in 3:2. Cameras seem to be either off center or distorted to some degree. Which is why I would dread a DJI repair, as you may get a totally different camera/gimbal or even a different drone.

The other issue as I pointed out before is that the 3:2 also cuts down on sky considerably and since the P4 sensor won't rotate like the Mavic Panos can get too narrow for my taste. That is why when I want a pano, I manually stitch up 15 degrees, then down 15 degrees, then move the gimbal and start over. With the built in grid lines it's pretty easy to line up the shots close enough to merge later on.

Paul C