15 second video showing where I accidentally switched down to Manual mode instead of up to GPS mode after flying in Attitude mode.
http://youtu.be/KBKGtQKxPNE
http://youtu.be/KBKGtQKxPNE
S1 switch accidentally moved to manual mode
- Thread starter Bigbells
- Start date
Looks like I will never have manual even EXIST as an option on my S1 switch so I can avoid that! :lol:
I give myself a B+ for reacting fast enough to push the throttle up, even though I wasn't quick enough to keep it from banging the roof.
My intent is to become proficient at flying in manual mode, eventually. I've practiced for EXTREMELY short intervals of time on 3 or 4 occasions, but this one was unplanned and I was pleased with how fast I realized what was going on and how fast I responded. I go by own standards, not anyone else's.
My intent is to become proficient at flying in manual mode, eventually. I've practiced for EXTREMELY short intervals of time on 3 or 4 occasions, but this one was unplanned and I was pleased with how fast I realized what was going on and how fast I responded. I go by own standards, not anyone else's.
I find that Manual mode is completely crazy to do unless you're in a wide open field without anything to run into!!@#
I rigged my Futaba so that I can only go into manual mode by pulling on a spring-switch, the moment i let go it goes back into GPS mode.
I rigged my Futaba so that I can only go into manual mode by pulling on a spring-switch, the moment i let go it goes back into GPS mode.
I'm still looking for a wide open field that doesn't have any ground to run into. :mrgreen:Gizmo3000 said:
Actually, I agree with you completely. Any significant collisions I've had have been with standing objects, although I've had enough broken props from tip-overs after landing that I almost always land the bird in my hand these days.
Madwak said:The surface of the moon would be good? No gravity pulling you into the ground
But no air to provide lift. Would be odd firing up the props and no moon dust blowing around.
Luckily, I learned how to fly single rotor helis (SRHs) with NO electronic stabilization -- flying 3D & speed so manual mode is no problem... 
I guess knowing how to fly in manual has some benefits, as it doesn't bother me to fly for fun in that mode.
Nowadays in the MR world it seems like I'm the exception, probably viewed as one of the crazy, stupid ones LOL!
(I'm still extremely safety conscious, though -- since I learned to fly on SRHs... a Phantom will cut you plenty good, but a 700-class SRH could easily split your skull in half.)
I guess knowing how to fly in manual has some benefits, as it doesn't bother me to fly for fun in that mode.
Nowadays in the MR world it seems like I'm the exception, probably viewed as one of the crazy, stupid ones LOL!
(I'm still extremely safety conscious, though -- since I learned to fly on SRHs... a Phantom will cut you plenty good, but a 700-class SRH could easily split your skull in half.)
I am interested in any advice/experience from those that have flown in Manual mode (other than "Don't"). I am skeptical we will be free of the 2m/sec descent limit anytime soon, and I don't want to lose a bird over can't-descend-fast-enough predicaments. I have no interest in stunt flying, aerobatics or anything other than fast controlled descents. I like Gizmo's idea of using the Futuba's spring level for brief training stints. How sensitive/erratic is the P2 in Manual mode? Is it simply ATTI mode with all training wheels and limits off?
Curious...
Kelly
Curious...
Kelly
Lots of us learned to fly helis without electronic stabilization, that was in the pre-flybarless days. Just a gyro on the tail rotor. Now with the flybarless helis using 3-axis gyros is almost like cheating.
When I learned to fly helis all we had were mechanical tail rotor gyros. Spinning wheels inside :shock: It was hard to keep from bumping into the dinosaurs!! :lol:
When I learned to fly helis all we had were mechanical tail rotor gyros. Spinning wheels inside :shock: It was hard to keep from bumping into the dinosaurs!! :lol:
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Why fly manual mode? Its fun, challenging, and may save your bird from a "flyaway" related to GPS error.
I'll give yo a few tips I've picked up about manual mode:
#1: the moment you switch to it, it throttles down and descends (as seen in your video). So push up on the throttle as you switch into manual mode.
#2: In manual mode, the Phantom does not "center". You are now performing a balancing act similar to keep a ball on the top of an inverted bowl. You must counter each input with an opposite command (If you apply a small amount of forward stick, it will stay at that inclination. Continue applying forward stick, and it will nose over. Control inputs are "additive" or "cumulative".
I'll give yo a few tips I've picked up about manual mode:
#1: the moment you switch to it, it throttles down and descends (as seen in your video). So push up on the throttle as you switch into manual mode.
#2: In manual mode, the Phantom does not "center". You are now performing a balancing act similar to keep a ball on the top of an inverted bowl. You must counter each input with an opposite command (If you apply a small amount of forward stick, it will stay at that inclination. Continue applying forward stick, and it will nose over. Control inputs are "additive" or "cumulative".
DrJoe said:
Dr Joe,
Thanks for those tips. What type of descent rates are you comfortable with, when you have a lot of altitude to bleed off? What rates get you nervous? Also, why is ATTI not sufficient to prevent a fly-away? It has saved me several times when GPS went nuts.
Kelly
My grand total time flying manual mode is no more than 15 seconds, in about 4 flights.
I was glad that I discussed it before trying for the first time, and got the sound advice to not enter manual mode when close to the ground. On my first attempt I was up at about 60 feet and able to give it enough throttle about 5 feet above where it would have hit the ground.
ATTI mode is good, too. Momentum counts! The bird will not stop and hover but will instead use up the energy from the most recent stick input, continuing in whatever direction you last applied, slowly decelerating.
I use Assistant version 1.08, but I like the reduced descent rate that's programmed into later versions. With 2.0 and beyond, I'm able to come down faster by bottoming out the throttle stick than I'm able to do with version 1.08. It's not that I CAN'T descend faster with version 1.08, because there is no 3 m/s or 2 m/s descent maximum as there is with the later versions. It's just that in order to avoid descending too fast and entering freefall, I baby the throttle, whereas I could just pull it all the way down when I used 2.0 and 3 point whatever. Except for that one feature, though, I feel that 1.08 is superior, because I do NOT want to enable the flight limits that come with later firmware versions.
I was glad that I discussed it before trying for the first time, and got the sound advice to not enter manual mode when close to the ground. On my first attempt I was up at about 60 feet and able to give it enough throttle about 5 feet above where it would have hit the ground.
ATTI mode is good, too. Momentum counts! The bird will not stop and hover but will instead use up the energy from the most recent stick input, continuing in whatever direction you last applied, slowly decelerating.
I use Assistant version 1.08, but I like the reduced descent rate that's programmed into later versions. With 2.0 and beyond, I'm able to come down faster by bottoming out the throttle stick than I'm able to do with version 1.08. It's not that I CAN'T descend faster with version 1.08, because there is no 3 m/s or 2 m/s descent maximum as there is with the later versions. It's just that in order to avoid descending too fast and entering freefall, I baby the throttle, whereas I could just pull it all the way down when I used 2.0 and 3 point whatever. Except for that one feature, though, I feel that 1.08 is superior, because I do NOT want to enable the flight limits that come with later firmware versions.
