Best Controller for Phantom 2 - FrSky Taranis

[Boozshey]

Re: Best Controller for Phantom 2

I felt the same way after a couple hours of trying to figure it out.

It's actually pretty simple though. Especially since it has a smart port like the futaba.

I'm not at my computer but I'll link you to the two write ups I used. It made it very simple and there is tons of support out there.

Wow, thanks Boozshey. What I hope to get is help (ideally a video link if out there) with step by step info on how to remove the stock rx from the phantom and replace and wire the x8r rx into the phantom. This is all new to me.
Thanks so much for your response...

Also, if you PM me your email address I can just give you my config file.

 

[Khudson7]

Re: Best Controller for Phantom 2

I felt the same way after a couple hours of trying to figure it out.

It's actually pretty simple though. Especially since it has a smart port like the futaba.

I'm not at my computer but I'll link you to the two write ups I used. It made it very simple and there is tons of support out there.

Wow, thanks Boozshey. What I hope to get is help (ideally a video link if out there) with step by step info on how to remove the stock rx from the phantom and replace and wire the x8r rx into the phantom. This is all new to me.
Thanks so much for your response...

Also, if you PM me your email address I can just give you my config file.

Many thanks for the offer. I think I am all set now. I was able to download an eeprom from someone else on this sight which gave me a great start at having the taranis programmed.

I am a newbie at this, but as it turned out, with everyone's help, and in retrospect, it could not be simpler, just plugging the x2 into the sbus of the x8r and download the file into the taranis. With just a few more configuring, I was good to go. Now to learn all the ins and outs of the taranis. I have already started making changes such as setting a switch to set 3 different pitch speeds for the camera with an S-curve and getting very smooth camera pitch movements that I could never have done with the stock controller. Also reset the spring on the throttle so it centres in the middle like the stock controller. And set a switch to lower rudder movement at 60% for smoother yaw moves in video. And the different alarms and timers...what an improvement over the stock controller, and I know I have just started. There is so much more to learn.

I absolutely LOVE it's ability to talk letting you know what switches you are activating, warnings, etc without having to look at controls and it is so configurable...I have already configured some of of my own .wav files and installed them along with the above changes. This is SO much better than the controllers that just beep at you!

What a fantastic improvement over the phantom controller. And to think, when I first started this...I was ready to throw this thing out the window. I realizing now all of the great programming features on this controller. But when it first arrives, it is like a blank slate. It would take an engineer and lots of time to learn how to program it from scratch. But with the help from this site and a pre-programmed config file available on this site, I am well on my way to enjoying all of the features of the taranis.

DISCLAIMER: I have NO relationship with FrSky...just a happy consumer...

 

[mattpitts74]

Hi There,

I have just placed an order for a Taranis, which I plan to use with my P2. I think I'm going to help a little help setting everything up. I will also be adding the X8R RX.

I'm hoping this is a relatively straight forward job. So far I have ordered the Taranis transmitter and the X8R receiver.

My questions is there anything else I need hardware wise to get this up and running with the P2?

I understand that telemetry info can be displayed on the Taranis, along with battery voltage, I was thinking I can use this instead of a iosd mini. Is this possible?

Any advice is very welcome.

Thanks

Matt

 

[OI Photography]

The Taranis and the X8R are technically all you'll need to get started, the installation of the receiver is a simple matter of unplugging the stock unit and plugging in the X8R.

Yes the Taranis can display a wide range of telemetry on the display and even give you verbal announcements of it. The catch is that you'll need to add separate FrSky sensors for any type of data you want to capture, it can't pull the info straight from the NAZA. The sensors are fairly small and reasonably priced, but once you start packing 3 or 4 of them in or on a Phantom it can start to get a little crowded. I just use two on my Phantom though (Voltage sensor and Current sensor), and since RSSI (signal strength) reporting is already built in to the receiver those may be all you need.

 

[mattpitts74]

Great thanks for the info, I'm most concerned about getting a battery warning, which assume the voltage and current senor will provide me with?

Sorry for silly questions, but i'm a complete beginner with all this, do I need both? can you explain what they do?

Thanks

 

[chipwich]

Hi, this is my first post, so greetings and salutations.

I've had two Phantoms, P1 and currently a P2 v2. I used a Futaba T8FGs which will bind directly to either P1 or P2 internal receiver. If you have a P1 with the upgrade board for the H3-2D, it is really easy to bind because the reciever's bind button is reachable inside the battery compartment upper right hand side. For P1 without the upgrade board and P2 owners, you have to take the top of the shell of to access the bind button.

However...now I fly with an X9D for everything.

FrSky Receiver conversions for Phantom 2
Since I've migrated my fleet to FrSky Taranis, I removed the internal receiver on the P2 and installed a FrSky X6R. You don't really need the X8R, but OK to use if that is what you have. I have done 3 X6R conversions now, so can do one in about 20 mins. You actually don't need to remove the internal receiver either, but why have the weight and clutter.

Need: 25CM FrSky antennas (available from you FrSky dealer) and double-sided tape

1. After pulling the top shell, you remove the four screws holding down the Phantom's main board. That will allow you to move it around slight to get to the two screws holding the internal receiver. After removing the receiver screws, save them in case you want to revert, especially since they are different lengths.
2. Remove tape on the stock antenna leads and pull them through their applicable holes.
3. Disconnect the two servo cables at the RX. They are hot glued so go gently. Scrape off the bits of hot glue on the ends that will go into the X6R or X8R. I use channel 5 on the Taranis for gimbal pitch, so I connect the NAZA's X1 to port 5 on the X6R, and X2 to the S-Bus port.
4. Pop off the X8R or X6R cover, gently remove the stock antennas, and replace with the 25cm ones. They seem like they don't fit, but with a firm press while gently rotating side to side, they will pop on. They are a tight fit, but I add a little hot glue, because that's how they come from the factory.
5. Use some double-sided tape to stick the X6R to the side of the NAZA so that they are side by side with the servo ports on the receiver on the same side as those on the NAZA, because you will be using the short servo cables that are already in place on the NAZA X1 and X2 ports.
6. Thread your new antennas through the same ports as the stock antennas. Tape as needed.
7. Put the Taranis in bind mode on Page 2 (Model Setup) and while pressing a hex driver on the bind button of the X6R or X8R, power up your Phantom. I'll assume that you didn't install your props because the top shell is still off.
8. After about 10 seconds, let up on the bind button, and power cycle your Taranis. The RX status light should change to green indicating bind.
9. Put everything back together except for props, run Assistant and go through the stick and X1 calibration as you do with any new NAZA install.
10. Optional (I do it). Open your Taranis and convert the throttle side to center spring mode so that hands of your Phanton will stay in position in GPS mode. Takes 5 mins.

How to get smooth video:
1. Add 40% Expo to Aileron, Elevator, and Rudder on the Taranis Input screen (page 5). This will greatly smooth you inputs just off center points.
2. On the Mixer screen (page 6) add 8 sec to Slow Up and Slow Down on the channel that you are using for gimbal pitch.
3. On the Servos screen (page 7) set your Subtrim to place the gimbal in the position that you want when the rotary is at the midpoint or detent. I like to use LS and -25 for this, but of course this is personal preference. Play around with the end points to get the desired motion and max/min pitch.
4. Use a 3 axis gimbal if you can afford one. The H3-3D is not perfect but getting much better with latest f/w.

Hope this helps.

Cheers from Atlanta.

 

[Khudson7]

Great thanks for the info, I'm most concerned about getting a battery warning, which assume the voltage and current senor will provide me with?

Sorry for silly questions, but i'm a complete beginner with all this, do I need both? can you explain what they do?

Thanks

I'd like to think there are NO silly questions, as I must have asked many of them myself, in trying to get my taranis and phantom 2 set up.

A couple of weeks ago, I was sitting here saying "Oh My, what have I got myself into" while starring at the taranis and phantom. Now and in retrospect, it really is quite simple, when someone helps to show you the way.

You asked about getting battery readings, and as Il Photography mentioned, for that, you would need to add the Frsky voltage piece into the phantom. I understand it is not an expensive piece, but if getting that reading is important to you, then that would be one way to go. In my case, I already had fpv set up with the iosd so I do get an icon on the fpv screen that shows battery use. Therefore, I just installed the x8r receiver into the phantom and I am fine with that. As he also mentioned, the Taranis already does have RSSI(reports the signal strength between the receiver and radio) built in. I think this is a great feature. With the stock dji radio, should your phantom go out of range from the radio you were left with hoping RTH would kick in and it would return. Now with RSSI(and ability to set up warnings, and the fact that the radio can talk to you) you can have a low signal warning and a critical signal warning letting you know that the signal is getting weak BEFORE the radio has lost the signal especially when the phantom is way out. The radio reports the rssi as db units. I am told that about 38 db is at about the threshold of losing signal, so I have a critical warning set at 40 db and low warning set at 45db. So the radio will verbally warn me before I have lost the signal.

I probably will add the battery voltage piece down the road, but for me now, I manage with the iosd battery warning, for now.

Here is a thread that also has good info on setting everything up...on page 5 someone list the steps, which I found useful. Also I got my starting config(eeprom) file from that thread. That will give you a good start since a lot of the taranis programming has already been done for you in this file.http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3921 I started with that taranis.bin file, and began making personal changes to it, as I became more familiar with the open tx programming in the taranis.

Here is also a link to a pdf file which I found useful.
http://www.alofthobbies.com/files/Taranis_Quick_Start_Guide.pdf

And if you do not have this already, you will need this free program called companion9x to download and/or flash, the taranis from the computer(it is available for windows/mac/linux):
https://code.google.com/p/companion9x/downloads/list

I have grown completely dependant now on the voice feature of the taranis. (A feature that most other radios don't have). It is completely configurable. I have created several of my own messages and warnings. Very easy to do. It tells me when I first turn it on, if any default switch settings are not right to start out with, it confirms each switch when I click it to confirm I hit the right one, gives me verbal warnings, etc.etc. It is sort of the "Siri" of the rc radios! :lol:

Chipwich suggest getting the 25CM FrSky antennas. The x8r rx that I received with my taranis, had two antennas with a small brick piece on each end. The antennas he mentioned are probably better, from what I understand, probably better reception(not sure about this), but more importantly, easier to install because the antennas will fit down the hole in the legs like the ones you are replacing. In my case(since I did not want to wait for another delivery) I chose to use the antennas attached to the x8r, so I drilled a small half hole at the seam between top and bottom of phantom for the wires to fit through to the outside then taped the two (bricks, as I call them) one to the leg and one to the arm( I understand they should be at right angles to each other)

 

[Malolo]

Hi, this is my first post, so greetings and salutations.

I've had two Phantoms, P1 and currently a P2 v2. I used a Futaba T8FGs which will bind directly to either P1 or P2 internal receiver. If you have a P1 with the upgrade board for the H3-2D, it is really easy to bind because the reciever's bind button is reachable inside the battery compartment upper right hand side. For P1 without the upgrade board and P2 owners, you have to take the top of the shell of to access the bind button.

However...now I fly with an X9D for everything.

FrSky Receiver conversions for Phantom 2
Since I've migrated my fleet to FrSky Taranis, I removed the internal receiver on the P2 and installed a FrSky X6R. You don't really need the X8R, but OK to use if that is what you have. I have done 3 X6R conversions now, so can do one in about 20 mins. You actually don't need to remove the internal receiver either, but why have the weight and clutter.

Need: 25CM FrSky antennas (available from you FrSky dealer) and double-sided tape

1. After pulling the top shell, you remove the four screws holding down the Phantom's main board. That will allow you to move it around slight to get to the two screws holding the internal receiver. After removing the receiver screws, save them in case you want to revert, especially since they are different lengths.
2. Remove tape on the stock antenna leads and pull them through their applicable holes.
3. Disconnect the two servo cables at the RX. They are hot glued so go gently. Scrape off the bits of hot glue on the ends that will go into the X6R or X8R. I use channel 5 on the Taranis for gimbal pitch, so I connect the NAZA's X1 to port 5 on the X6R, and X2 to the S-Bus port.
4. Pop off the X8R or X6R cover, gently remove the stock antennas, and replace with the 25cm ones. They seem like they don't fit, but with a firm press while gently rotating side to side, they will pop on. They are a tight fit, but I add a little hot glue, because that's how they come from the factory.
5. Use some double-sided tape to stick the X6R to the side of the NAZA so that they are side by side with the servo ports on the receiver on the same side as those on the NAZA, because you will be using the short servo cables that are already in place on the NAZA X1 and X2 ports.
6. Thread your new antennas through the same ports as the stock antennas. Tape as needed.
7. Put the Taranis in bind mode on Page 2 (Model Setup) and while pressing a hex driver on the bind button of the X6R or X8R, power up your Phantom. I'll assume that you didn't install your props because the top shell is still off.
8. After about 10 seconds, let up on the bind button, and power cycle your Taranis. The RX status light should change to green indicating bind.
9. Put everything back together except for props, run Assistant and go through the stick and X1 calibration as you do with any new NAZA install.
10. Optional (I do it). Open your Taranis and convert the throttle side to center spring mode so that hands of your Phanton will stay in position in GPS mode. Takes 5 mins.

How to get smooth video:
1. Add 40% Expo to Aileron, Elevator, and Rudder on the Taranis Input screen (page 5). This will greatly smooth you inputs just off center points.
2. On the Mixer screen (page 6) add 8 sec to Slow Up and Slow Down on the channel that you are using for gimbal pitch.
3. On the Servos screen (page 7) set your Subtrim to place the gimbal in the position that you want when the rotary is at the midpoint or detent. I like to use LS and -25 for this, but of course this is personal preference. Play around with the end points to get the desired motion and max/min pitch.
4. Use a 3 axis gimbal if you can afford one. The H3-3D is not perfect but getting much better with latest f/w.

Hope this helps.

Cheers from Atlanta.

Thanks Chipwich and everyone else who contributed to this and the other taranis threads. I have been working along for the past 3 days to get my taranis up and running without using someone elses eeprom. After a day or so of frustration I had a moment of weakness and downloaded one of the eeproms floating around but didnt upload it to my controller. I started fresh and was able to get things to work just fine.

I currently have my gimbal connected to channel 5 on my right slider and it works great! When I have my slider pulled all the way down, it makes my go pro face forward (horizontal with the phantom). I would really like for it to be the exact opposite. So when the RS is down I would like the go pro facing down. To me, this just seems more intuitive.

Is there a quick and easy way to just flip this around? Or do i have to go and mess with the curves and all that stuff? I am still learning so I apologize if this is a newbie question, but so far this has been a frustrating yet rewarding experience. Thanks again to everyone who has helped to demystify the whole taranis/opentx installation.

malolo

 

[Khudson7]

I assume in the mixer, you have channel 5 assigned to a slider like LS. Change the weight from 100 to -100, I think that should do it.

 

[chipwich]

Easier to go on the Servos page and change to INV or the direction, depending on the version if OpenTX you are running. I also like doing it this way so that I can keep everything else normal and know at a glance which channels are inverted or reversed.

 

[DattaGroover]

Hi, this is my first post, so greetings and salutations.

I've had two Phantoms, P1 and currently a P2 v2. I used a Futaba T8FGs which will bind directly to either P1 or P2 internal receiver. If you have a P1 with the upgrade board for the H3-2D, it is really easy to bind because the reciever's bind button is reachable inside the battery compartment upper right hand side. For P1 without the upgrade board and P2 owners, you have to take the top of the shell of to access the bind button.

However...now I fly with an X9D for everything.

FrSky Receiver conversions for Phantom 2
Since I've migrated my fleet to FrSky Taranis, I removed the internal receiver on the P2 and installed a FrSky X6R. You don't really need the X8R, but OK to use if that is what you have. I have done 3 X6R conversions now, so can do one in about 20 mins. You actually don't need to remove the internal receiver either, but why have the weight and clutter.

Need: 25CM FrSky antennas (available from you FrSky dealer) and double-sided tape

1. After pulling the top shell, you remove the four screws holding down the Phantom's main board. That will allow you to move it around slight to get to the two screws holding the internal receiver. After removing the receiver screws, save them in case you want to revert, especially since they are different lengths.
2. Remove tape on the stock antenna leads and pull them through their applicable holes.
3. Disconnect the two servo cables at the RX. They are hot glued so go gently. Scrape off the bits of hot glue on the ends that will go into the X6R or X8R. I use channel 5 on the Taranis for gimbal pitch, so I connect the NAZA's X1 to port 5 on the X6R, and X2 to the S-Bus port.
4. Pop off the X8R or X6R cover, gently remove the stock antennas, and replace with the 25cm ones. They seem like they don't fit, but with a firm press while gently rotating side to side, they will pop on. They are a tight fit, but I add a little hot glue, because that's how they come from the factory.
5. Use some double-sided tape to stick the X6R to the side of the NAZA so that they are side by side with the servo ports on the receiver on the same side as those on the NAZA, because you will be using the short servo cables that are already in place on the NAZA X1 and X2 ports.
6. Thread your new antennas through the same ports as the stock antennas. Tape as needed.
7. Put the Taranis in bind mode on Page 2 (Model Setup) and while pressing a hex driver on the bind button of the X6R or X8R, power up your Phantom. I'll assume that you didn't install your props because the top shell is still off.
8. After about 10 seconds, let up on the bind button, and power cycle your Taranis. The RX status light should change to green indicating bind.
9. Put everything back together except for props, run Assistant and go through the stick and X1 calibration as you do with any new NAZA install.
10. Optional (I do it). Open your Taranis and convert the throttle side to center spring mode so that hands of your Phanton will stay in position in GPS mode. Takes 5 mins.

How to get smooth video:
1. Add 40% Expo to Aileron, Elevator, and Rudder on the Taranis Input screen (page 5). This will greatly smooth you inputs just off center points.
2. On the Mixer screen (page 6) add 8 sec to Slow Up and Slow Down on the channel that you are using for gimbal pitch.
3. On the Servos screen (page 7) set your Subtrim to place the gimbal in the position that you want when the rotary is at the midpoint or detent. I like to use LS and -25 for this, but of course this is personal preference. Play around with the end points to get the desired motion and max/min pitch.
4. Use a 3 axis gimbal if you can afford one. The H3-3D is not perfect but getting much better with latest f/w.

Hope this helps.

Cheers from Atlanta.

Great detailed advice, thank you so much.

 

[DattaGroover]

Need: 25CM FrSky antennas (available from you FrSky dealer) and double-sided tape

You say antennas - do you mean for the Taranis as well, or is that just for the Tx in the P2?

 

[OI Photography]

Need: 25CM FrSky antennas (available from you FrSky dealer) and double-sided tape

You say antennas - do you mean for the Taranis as well, or is that just for the Tx in the P2?

They were referring to the antennae on the X8R receiver that goes in the Phantom.

It is possible to replace the antenna on the Taranis itself, but it's a pretty trickly soldering job and I don't recommend it unless you have a specific need to do so.

 

[DattaGroover]

Need: 25CM FrSky antennas (available from you FrSky dealer) and double-sided tape

You say antennas - do you mean for the Taranis as well, or is that just for the Tx in the P2?

They were referring to the antennae on the X8R receiver that goes in the Phantom.

It is possible to replace the antenna on the Taranis itself, but it's a pretty trickly soldering job and I don't recommend it unless you have a specific need to do so.

That's what I thought, thanks. I just wanted to check since he mentioned antenna in the plural.

 

[Malolo]

Easier to go on the Servos page and change to INV or the direction, depending on the version if OpenTX you are running. I also like doing it this way so that I can keep everything else normal and know at a glance which channels are inverted or reversed.

I assume in the mixer, you have channel 5 assigned to a slider like LS. Change the weight from 100 to -100, I think that should do it.

Thanks chipwich and khudson for the input! I went with what chipwich advised and it worked like a charm. Just had to go back into the dji assistant software to recalibrate and everything was all fine tuned. Thanks again everyone for the assistance, hopefully I'll be able to return the favor or pay it forward sometime down the road when I get more experience and flight time.

Malolo

 

[DattaGroover]

Easier to go on the Servos page and change to INV or the direction, depending on the version if OpenTX you are running. I also like doing it this way so that I can keep everything else normal and know at a glance which channels are inverted or reversed.

I assume in the mixer, you have channel 5 assigned to a slider like LS. Change the weight from 100 to -100, I think that should do it.

Thanks chipwich and khudson for the input! I went with what chipwich advised and it worked like a charm. Just had to go back into the dji assistant software to recalibrate and everything was all fine tuned. Thanks again everyone for the assistance, hopefully I'll be able to return the favor or pay it forward sometime down the road when I get more experience and flight time.

Malolo

Good to know!

 

[Phantomdee]

Thanks , Interesting

 

[mattpitts74]

My Taranis has finally arrived in the post and I switched it on for the first time last night, it kinda looks a little bit scary, there are so many options!! ]

I also have the swap out the receiver inside the P2, which i'm also a bit nervous about doing, I plan to follow chipwich's instructions.

Once I have swapped out the receiver and bond it to the transmitter I'm still alittle unclear and the order I should do things?

Am I best starting with naza assist? then burning an eeprom to the taranis? Also there are various eeprom's floating about, but does anyone have there most upto date one that I could use as a starting point?

Thanks

 

[Gizmo3000]

Re: Best Controller for Phantom 2

I'm i right in thinking the T8J needs a different transmitter inside the phantom?

Also any ideas about how to adjust the springs?
/quote]

No idea on the springs, but the T8J would indeed require replacing the internal Rx of a Phantom 2.

I finally got my Taranis sorted out with my F450.
only took me a few hours to set it up initially, but then I spent a bunch of time just toying with all the mixers and dual rate expo stuff. boy it's deep!
But I do like all the bells and whistles, for $220 it's a heck of a Tx!

 

[Khudson7]

Re: Best Controller for Phantom 2

I'm i right in thinking the T8J needs a different transmitter inside the phantom?

Also any ideas about how to adjust the springs?
/quote]

No idea on the springs, but the T8J would indeed require replacing the internal Rx of a Phantom 2.

I finally got my Taranis sorted out with my F450.
only took me a few hours to set it up initially, but then I spent a bunch of time just toying with all the mixers and dual rate expo stuff. boy it's deep!
But I do like all the bells and whistles, for $220 it's a heck of a Tx!

Not sure I understand the question, but if you are asking how to adjust the taranis springs so that the throttle is centered like the dji stock radio, attached is a great doc about the taranis...page down and you will see a section on opening the taranis and which screws to adjust to center the throttle and remove the ratchets.https://docs.google.com/document/d/...oYMzP9XA-PJA81rDJQ/mobilebasic#h.969julpmmmk7