- Joined
- Feb 7, 2016
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My never-crashed P3A has developed a crack under one motor. It is over a year old. Anyone know what DJI charges to replace the shell on an out-of-warranty P3A? I'll do it myself if it is too much. I'm in USA.
Well I am waiting on my P3A to come back from DJI in the morning.
It was under warranty so did not pay.
The invoice for repair was shell halves were €7 each and a €50 service charge.
Now I guess these are the factory prices not resale.
I would suggest you send some pictures to them and see if you can find out if they will do it under warranty.
I have the tools and the time. Would be nice to have torque specs. I have a low-torque torque wrench.Here is the US, a shell cost around $60. Takes a couple of hours to replace it. Only tools you need would be a set of Torx drivers to fit the small screws holding the shell together and the motors to the shell.
I guess that it takes too much time to change-over the shell and so it's more economical to them to just change-over the AC itself.Seems very hit and miss whether they will replace the shell due to stress cracks! Many on here have had theirs replaced and others haven't, myself included. DJI will not even acknowledge the fact that it was sent in to them due to stress cracks, and have refused point blank to replace the shell.
They openly state that, at their option,they will either repair or replace when you send your bird in. Pretty sure that they replaced mine with refurb when I sent it in for stress cracks.I guess that it takes too much time to change-over the shell and so it's more economical to them to just change-over the AC itself.
If you had a warranty, you just voided it.Well I opened her up and found the crack wasn't that bad, looked worse in the screw hole than within the shell. Shell side pulled away from the screw well taking a small piece of the wall with it.
I tried using plast-aid. I probably was better off not messing with it.
First, make it thinner than the instructions imply. What does "enough to saturate" mean anyway? Second, be sparing with it as you need to make sure you don't interfere with the motor mount including those fingers. If you don't keep the stuff shallow you'll also interfere with the shell top being able to secure to the bottom. There's a skirt on the top she'll surrounding the motor that goes quite deep into the cavity. Also there are fingers on the top shell that stick out further than the seam between shells.
Stuff seems to thicken quickly. I don't think I had 2 minutes.
Now I have to dremel the excess plast-aid I stuck on. I only did the two rear (or was it front?). I'm not messing with the other two arms.
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