I don't suppose its recommended to cut/shorten ESC wiring, if it is way to long?
Hey man, ...yep, that's exactly what you do with the new E305 Tuned Propulsion System. Those ESC power wires must be over a foot long, but I watched a video where the guy said you would probably be a little hesitant to cut something you paid so much for, but cut away.
I'm thinking not just the weight of extra wiring, but, trying to bundle it up & stash it, if its way to long?
Yeah, I had planned to bundle it, but then was worried about the weight, so did some more searching and sure enough, you cut it to fit, with a little extra in case of emergencies.

Yep, you guessed it, I had an emergency. I HATE working with a central insulated conductor with braided shielding around it, which is under another insulated layer. So I had already cut three or four ESCs to fit perfectly and was on the next one, very carefully cutting around the outer insulation layer to expose the braided shield. And then, as I pulled to get the insulation off, ...nothing happened

. I knew I cut all the way around and didn't want to cut around again, for fear of cutting through the shield. But I did so gently cut just a hair deeper and pulled again, and



the shield and insulation came off together. Thank goodness I cut just a little, maybe a quarter inch too long for just such an occurrence. So I was able to salvage the bad cut and wire it up anyway. Problem is, the next two were the same way


!!! I don't know how, but something got in between the outer insulation and the shield and bonded them together. So on the last two, I cut carefully around the outer layer, then cut a line lengthwise to the end and peeled the insulation off. That seemed to work fine.
At present, I've got all the ESCs wired, soldered, fixed to the underside of the arm with cable ties (color matched of course

), and all the signal wires with the three pin header bundled and tied in the same manner, between the ESC and where the arm meets the bottom plate. Also all six motors mounted and plugged into the ESCs, all six arms mounted to the bottom plate, the NAZA-M V2 mounted in the center of the bottom plate, and all the motors wired into the NAZA. My DT7 transmitter and DR16 receiver just arrived, so I got the rx mounted and wired to the NAZA as well. Next, I'm placing the LED on the underside of the bottom plate in the very center. That way, during flight I can see the LED status at all times in all orientations. A number of folks have placed them on the GPS staff pointing to the rear, but that means if you're on the return flight home, you can't see the LED. Also I've seen some place it on one of the legs. Again, depending on orientation, it will at times be blocked from view.
So it looks like the PMU V2 is the only thing left to mount on the bottom plate (until I get my iOSD mini) and I'll be able to affix the top plate and begin software configuration and calibration. I have to take frequent breaks, because it's so tedious, working to keep all the wiring neat and out of the way of other components. I'll probably post a pic or two next time.
BTW, the new Weller 40 watt soldering station is a dream. It worked perfectly for tinning the solder points on the bottom board and even for affixing the XT60 plug to the main power wires. More later...