I usually set the filter to some -0,7 to -1,5 ev on ground, and that gives around zero after takeoff
Ah that's a good idea

I usually set the filter to some -0,7 to -1,5 ev on ground, and that gives around zero after takeoff
Nice work!I did some testing yesterday and maybe you just really have to get things set up right for the light. It's a big learning curve that's for sure.
Nice work!
I wonder what program you use for edit?
2.16 in the video you have done some effect that makes it go faster. How you do that ?
Regards Peter
Thanks peter.
I'm using Final Cut Pro x. Only been using it for a month or so completely new to it.
But there is a option called speed ramp or ramp speed lol one of those and you can can select a range from a clip and have it speed up or slow down and it transitions from fast to slow smoothly.
I'm not an expert but if you need any help trying it PM me and I'll try explain in more detail.
Thank you. I'm new to this hobby as well. I learning premiere pro and I think that is quite similar to cut x so maybe there is something like ramp in there. If you like you can check my video I done yesterday
This was using ND16 at sunset, no color grading or contrast mods at all, shot with Vivid color setting flying my P4 last Oct. I'm of the opinion that if I can get all my videos to look this good without the extra steps of grading, which I find time consuming, I'm OK with it.
Thanks for the input !! I have copied this to my note pad and will try this all the next time Im out. Like I had said I thought some of my shots were just to vivid like the golf course greens and the clear blue skyGuys, if you are going to use ND filters and want to get the best quality from your media (which I assume if you've spent the money on filters,) you REALLY need to be shooting in manual mode and getting your camera settings dialed-in.
Leaving your camera in Auto is causing havoc for the sensor trying to compensate for what the filter is trying to accomplish. If you don't want to take the time to learn about ideal camera settings, I would skip using an ND filter as it's only going to eventually cause your more headaches as to why shots are not turning out as expected. Any time you place anything in front of the lens of a camera, it is going to diminish detail and the overall quality of the shot. ND filters are specifically designed to allow us to dial-in shutter speeds on our aerial cameras. You're not going to accomplish this leaving your camera in Auto mode (it doesn't care about the shutter speed to control light.)
Some helpful tips...
If you are doing post on your videos, it's best to get your EV to -0.3 to -0.7 stops for maximum dynamic range and best looking results. Plan for this on the ground as your EV is guaranteed to increase once in the air, away from any sources of shade or diffused lighting.
- Lock your WB for conditions (or choose a middle of the road at about 5300K'ish)
- Lock ISO to 100. The moment you increase ISO, you're introducing more noise into your media.
- Set your aperture (5.6 is considered middle of the sweet spot on this camera in daylight)
- Set your shutter speed to double the frame rate you're shooting
- Set your sharpness at -1 to start. Experiment, then possibly -2 to eliminate moire or the oversharpness of this camera.
- Experiment with the color profiles. Vivid is okay but over-saturates (I wouldn't recommend this if you're planning to color correct or grade.) This is a personal choice. I shoot professionally in D-CINE for everything then grade.
Some quick advice on ND filter selection as most newer users tend to choose the wrong or weaker choice based upon what their seeing on their screens...
- ND-4 at dusk, dawn, or darker daytime conditions (heavy overcast)
- ND-8 with bright overcast to broken clouds
- ND-16 for partly sunny conditions
- ND-32 for full, bright sun
- ND-64 for sun with extra glare, such as snow
great Input thanks a tonGuys, if you are going to use ND filters and want to get the best quality from your media (which I assume if you've spent the money on filters,) you REALLY need to be shooting in manual mode and getting your camera settings dialed-in.
Leaving your camera in Auto is causing havoc for the sensor trying to compensate for what the filter is trying to accomplish. If you don't want to take the time to learn about ideal camera settings, I would skip using an ND filter as it's only going to eventually cause your more headaches as to why shots are not turning out as expected. Any time you place anything in front of the lens of a camera, it is going to diminish detail and the overall quality of the shot. ND filters are specifically designed to allow us to dial-in shutter speeds on our aerial cameras. You're not going to accomplish this leaving your camera in Auto mode (it doesn't care about the shutter speed to control light.)
Some helpful tips...
If you are doing post on your videos, it's best to get your EV to -0.3 to -0.7 stops for maximum dynamic range and best looking results. Plan for this on the ground as your EV is guaranteed to increase once in the air, away from any sources of shade or diffused lighting.
- Lock your WB for conditions (or choose a middle of the road at about 5300K'ish)
- Lock ISO to 100. The moment you increase ISO, you're introducing more noise into your media.
- Set your aperture (5.6 is considered middle of the sweet spot on this camera in daylight)
- Set your shutter speed to double the frame rate you're shooting
- Set your sharpness at -1 to start. Experiment, then possibly -2 to eliminate moire or the oversharpness of this camera.
- Experiment with the color profiles. Vivid is okay but over-saturates (I wouldn't recommend this if you're planning to color correct or grade.) This is a personal choice. I shoot professionally in D-CINE for everything then grade.
Some quick advice on ND filter selection as most newer users tend to choose the wrong or weaker choice based upon what their seeing on their screens...
- ND-4 at dusk, dawn, or darker daytime conditions (heavy overcast)
- ND-8 with bright overcast to broken clouds
- ND-16 for partly sunny conditions
- ND-32 for full, bright sun
- ND-64 for sun with extra glare, such as snow
Just to point out phantom cameras are fixed aperture.
well thats just not fair lol
Another excuse to upgrade!
How do I set the sharpness on the P4 I do not see where I can do this.Guys, if you are going to use ND filters and want to get the best quality from your media (which I assume if you've spent the money on filters,) you REALLY need to be shooting in manual mode and getting your camera settings dialed-in.
Leaving your camera in Auto is causing havoc for the sensor trying to compensate for what the filter is trying to accomplish. If you don't want to take the time to learn about ideal camera settings, I would skip using an ND filter as it's only going to eventually cause your more headaches as to why shots are not turning out as expected. Any time you place anything in front of the lens of a camera, it is going to diminish detail and the overall quality of the shot. ND filters are specifically designed to allow us to dial-in shutter speeds on our aerial cameras. You're not going to accomplish this leaving your camera in Auto mode (it doesn't care about the shutter speed to control light.)
Some helpful tips...
If you are doing post on your videos, it's best to get your EV to -0.3 to -0.7 stops for maximum dynamic range and best looking results. Plan for this on the ground as your EV is guaranteed to increase once in the air, away from any sources of shade or diffused lighting.
- Lock your WB for conditions (or choose a middle of the road at about 5300K'ish)
- Lock ISO to 100. The moment you increase ISO, you're introducing more noise into your media.
- Set your aperture (5.6 is considered middle of the sweet spot on this camera in daylight)
- Set your shutter speed to double the frame rate you're shooting
- Set your sharpness at -1 to start. Experiment, then possibly -2 to eliminate moire or the oversharpness of this camera.
- Experiment with the color profiles. Vivid is okay but over-saturates (I wouldn't recommend this if you're planning to color correct or grade.) This is a personal choice. I shoot professionally in D-CINE for everything then grade.
Some quick advice on ND filter selection as most newer users tend to choose the wrong or weaker choice based upon what their seeing on their screens...
- ND-4 at dusk, dawn, or darker daytime conditions (heavy overcast)
- ND-8 with bright overcast to broken clouds
- ND-16 for partly sunny conditions
- ND-32 for full, bright sun
- ND-64 for sun with extra glare, such as snow
Guys, if you are going to use ND filters and want to get the best quality from your media (which I assume if you've spent the money on filters,) you REALLY need to be shooting in manual mode and getting your camera settings dialed-in.
Leaving your camera in Auto is causing havoc for the sensor trying to compensate for what the filter is trying to accomplish. If you don't want to take the time to learn about ideal camera settings, I would skip using an ND filter as it's only going to eventually cause your more headaches as to why shots are not turning out as expected. Any time you place anything in front of the lens of a camera, it is going to diminish detail and the overall quality of the shot. ND filters are specifically designed to allow us to dial-in shutter speeds on our aerial cameras. You're not going to accomplish this leaving your camera in Auto mode (it doesn't care about the shutter speed to control light.)
Some helpful tips...
If you are doing post on your videos, it's best to get your EV to -0.3 to -0.7 stops for maximum dynamic range and best looking results. Plan for this on the ground as your EV is guaranteed to increase once in the air, away from any sources of shade or diffused lighting.
- Lock your WB for conditions (or choose a middle of the road at about 5300K'ish)
- Lock ISO to 100. The moment you increase ISO, you're introducing more noise into your media.
- Set your aperture (5.6 is considered middle of the sweet spot on this camera in daylight)
- Set your shutter speed to double the frame rate you're shooting
- Set your sharpness at -1 to start. Experiment, then possibly -2 to eliminate moire or the oversharpness of this camera.
- Experiment with the color profiles. Vivid is okay but over-saturates (I wouldn't recommend this if you're planning to color correct or grade.) This is a personal choice. I shoot professionally in D-CINE for everything then grade.
Some quick advice on ND filter selection as most newer users tend to choose the wrong or weaker choice based upon what their seeing on their screens...
- ND-4 at dusk, dawn, or darker daytime conditions (heavy overcast)
- ND-8 with bright overcast to broken clouds
- ND-16 for partly sunny conditions
- ND-32 for full, bright sun
- ND-64 for sun with extra glare, such as snow
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.