I have a mobile charging station that I have used for a few years. It hasn't changed drastically, but has morphed from the 3s/4s lipos of my home-built rigs to the proprietary batts of the P3. (soon to P4
) It is designed with ammo cans, a multicharger, and an inverter.
I have ran the 3 batt multi-charger through the inverter off of the cigarette lighter/power port. This is a VERY bad idea, and I would not suggest trying to charge 3 batts at once through a cig/lighter power port.
I have not had any major mishaps, but you have to hold your tongue
just right and connect batts very gingerly, and it is still a VERY bad idea.
So I am in the process of building a better, safer mobile solution. I have my inverter hard wired to my truck batt and mounted in my cab. Just the hard wiring alone has made a huge difference. The 8awg wire carries the current much better than the 20 or 24 or what ever the cig lighter/charger uses. No more need to hold my tongue just right
I have some unique plans for this set up. I can post pics as it goes. But first I have some wiring safety questions. The inverter is fused. I guess that should pop on overload. But that is at the end of 8ft of 8awg wire in my cab. That load caring ability can go south really quickly inside my cab. I want to install a fuse/circuit breaker at the batt under the hood much like a car amp uses.
So car stereo enthusiasts, you may be able to help me most with this. I have a 410w inverter. At 12v that is:
410w/12v = about 35 amps
Peak load is rated at 820w so that math is 810w/12v = about 70amps
My charger is rated at 300w (3x100w) so I don't think I will ever get to peak load, but I "think" I should fuse to the peak load number.
I like the idea of a circuit breaker as opposed to a fuse. I also want to only switch the power on to this system, when needed. A circuit breaker would negate the need for an extra switch as I could leave it tripped when not in use. I was thinking of something like this, https://www.amazon.com/KUMEED-Inlin...tion/dp/B01H3DKGFK/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_2_dp
But I know nothing of branding in this arena. I am looking for suggestions in branding and correct amperage.

I have ran the 3 batt multi-charger through the inverter off of the cigarette lighter/power port. This is a VERY bad idea, and I would not suggest trying to charge 3 batts at once through a cig/lighter power port.
I have not had any major mishaps, but you have to hold your tongue

So I am in the process of building a better, safer mobile solution. I have my inverter hard wired to my truck batt and mounted in my cab. Just the hard wiring alone has made a huge difference. The 8awg wire carries the current much better than the 20 or 24 or what ever the cig lighter/charger uses. No more need to hold my tongue just right
I have some unique plans for this set up. I can post pics as it goes. But first I have some wiring safety questions. The inverter is fused. I guess that should pop on overload. But that is at the end of 8ft of 8awg wire in my cab. That load caring ability can go south really quickly inside my cab. I want to install a fuse/circuit breaker at the batt under the hood much like a car amp uses.
So car stereo enthusiasts, you may be able to help me most with this. I have a 410w inverter. At 12v that is:
410w/12v = about 35 amps
Peak load is rated at 820w so that math is 810w/12v = about 70amps
My charger is rated at 300w (3x100w) so I don't think I will ever get to peak load, but I "think" I should fuse to the peak load number.
I like the idea of a circuit breaker as opposed to a fuse. I also want to only switch the power on to this system, when needed. A circuit breaker would negate the need for an extra switch as I could leave it tripped when not in use. I was thinking of something like this, https://www.amazon.com/KUMEED-Inlin...tion/dp/B01H3DKGFK/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_2_dp
But I know nothing of branding in this arena. I am looking for suggestions in branding and correct amperage.