Have DBS antenna need amp recomendations

[dsd317]

Here's pics of my current setup with 2016 Sunhans gold amps and battery attached to DBS ITELITE antenna. I replaced the internal cables that came with the DBS mod kit with the ARGtek kit from BlueProton: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BAH7EQO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 

[TK P3A]

Nice setup. It works and is simple. I am thinking about trying to keep it under radio for cleaner install with cables.

How much did it improve your range?

How about a pic of your setup Long range jim?

 

[Long range Jim]

Nice setup. It works and is simple. I am thinking about trying to keep it under radio for cleaner install with cables.

How much did it improve your range?

How about a pic of your setup Long range jim?

 

[Long range Jim]

Hello, where did you purchase your suchan gold amps.

Nice setup. It works and is simple. I am thinking about trying to keep it under radio for cleaner install with cables.

How much did it improve your range?

How about a pic of your setup Long range jim?

 

[dsd317]

Not sure if you know this, but we can't see any of your replies.

 

[dsd317]

Nice setup. It works and is simple. I am thinking about trying to keep it under radio for cleaner install with cables.

How much did it improve your range?

How about a pic of your setup Long range jim?

I'm not doing this for long distance. I'm doing this for a reliable and stronger rc and video signal, while flying in a wi-fi congested and closely built houses in my neighborhood. So far, it's way better than stock. But between just having the DBS antenna alone and with amps. I haven't pushed the limits, so I can't really give a comparison just yet.

 

[NoOne]

I'm not doing this for long distance. I'm doing this for a reliable and stronger rc and video signal, while flying in a wi-fi congested and closely built houses in my neighborhood. So far, it's way better than stock. But between just having the DBS antenna alone and with amps. I haven't pushed the limits, so I can't really give a comparison just yet.

Would you mind posting more detail on how you used the existing antenna holes on the controller to connect the wires to? What connectors did you use? I like this idea vs. drilling holes on top if possible.

 

[TK P3A]

I ordered the longer stud cables so I can re-use the stock holes as well.

Basically all you should need is a longer shank on the SMA end of the cable that sticks out of remote and you can run them through the stock antenna holes.

I ordered this kit off ebay LONG THREAD DJI Inspire Stage 3 Drone Radio Remote Cable Only Mod Kit SMA/RPSMA

You can use this particular kit on inspire or phantom 3 RC

 

[dsd317]

Be careful. Most cables that come with mod kits that go from the controller to the antenna have male RP-SMA to male SMA connectors. Which is why the internal cables that come with these same kits have female RP-SMA connectors. So you would need female RP-SMA's with longer shanks or threads in order to fit properly into your stock antenna holes.

Another thing to consider is that those EBAY cables with the longer threads are actually RG316. Those are slightly larger in diameter than the RG178 cables that come with mod kits. So they may be harder to route inside your controller.

Here's a pic of SMA's vs RP-SMA's:

Here's a pic showing size difference between RG178 and RG316:

 

[TK P3A]

that was one of the trickier parts to building my own setup from scratch.

My ebay long shank cables are SMA female shanks. The AMP is SMA female on radio side and RP SMA Female on antenna side. The antenna is SMA female. I have ordered cables to fit correctly between each piece. hopefully everything works as planned haha

 

[Long range Jim]

Here's pics of my current setup with 2016 Sunhans gold amps and battery attached to DBS ITELITE antenna. I replaced the internal cables that came with the DBS mod kit with the ARGtek kit from BlueProton: http://www.amazon.com/

I'm not doing this for long distance. I'm doing this for a reliable and stronger rc and video signal, while flying in a wi-fi congested and closely built houses in my neighborhood. So far, it's way better than stock. But between just having the DBS antenna alone and with amps. I haven't pushed the limits, so I can't really give a comparison just yet.

Mine looks very similar to yours. The only concern I have with yours is when you fold the cell bracket back to fit in the case. Reason why is your heavy duty black wires age getting stressed. Once you gently install wires, the should never be subject to bending. DBS mods taught me this because I was having wire failure.

Regarding range with boosters. I'm doing flights over land presently over six miles, although my present record is 6.7 miles Unboosted over water. Been way to windy to beat this distance the past 4 months in my location in Florida

 

[dsd317]

Mine looks very similar to yours. The only concern I have with yours is when you fold the cell bracket back to fit in the case. Reason why is your heavy duty black wires age getting stressed. Once you gently install wires, the should never be subject to bending. DBS mods taught me this because I was having wire failure.

Regarding range with boosters. I'm doing flights over land presently over six miles, although my present record is 6.7 miles Unboosted over water. Been way to windy to beat this distance the past 4 months in my location in Florida

Thanks for your concern. I understand completely about minimum bend radii (I actually work in a cable manufacturing facility). I made those cables and intentionally made them longer so that when I place them into either case (which is in there longer than they are out when I'm flying), they would not pull on the antenna and amps. Before I bend the ipad holder back, I loosen the RP-SMA and SMA connectors on the amps so they would be free to rotate, thus allow for subtle bends, rather than steep bends. These bends are not as sharp as others I've seen from popular antenna mods posted all over the internet. Besides, I've got lots of spares (I actually enjoy building these cables myself and also use these opportunities to teach my son how to solder and crimp).

Congrats on your long distance range! I would love to see pics of your setup and area where you performed those long distances. Those would help others understand the kind of environment and landscapes that allow for better signal strength.

 

[sdccroses4]

Very new to this but can you run one amp with splitter just increasing your effective output to half so your distance is still improved but not as much again I apologize for my lack of knowledge but I am trying to learn without crashing my bird so better to ask and look dumb as opposed to doing and crashing my bird and pocketbook

 

[TK P3A]

Hopefully someone smart will chime in and explain better, but heres the basics:

They have lower watt amps and even dual amps. But you can't split the antenna feeds. There are 2 feeds and 2 antennas and 2 seperated streams of data going through each. 1 line is for your remote and 1 line is for the video. On the P3A and P3P they are both 2.4ghz. On the P3S one is 2.4ghz and one is 5.8ghz. They sell cheaper sunhans amps that are only 2 watt (or maybe less) but they require exact power inputs. The 3w gold amps have several power voltage options making them work with a wider assortment of power supplies. Even if you don't plan on distance flights they will improve your range nearby when behind objects and trees.

In my opinion it sounds like if you don't think you need max amplification I wouldn't even mess with it. Just put on the upgraded DBS antenna and see if that's enough. You can always come back and add amps and battery.

 

[sdccroses4]

Ok makes sense thanks again was thinking more on the weight saving and bulk saving end of the spectrum on the transmitter, one amp smaller battery but trade off lower gain but now I understand that the split is not really do able with one line being video and one remote, thanks again makes sense

 

[TK P3A]

Haha no worries....
You could run this as some kits do... but I think the weight savings are very minor. It gets you down to one power input but the amplification is not as high. Seems like the dual amps is the way to go.
http://g04.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1OahD...ignal-Booster-1000mW-2-4-GHz-2T2R-300Mbps.jpg

Also you could just run one amp on radio side and one amp and antenna on birdside like the FPVLR bird side kit ($135).

 

[dsd317]

Ok makes sense thanks again was thinking more on the weight saving and bulk saving end of the spectrum on the transmitter, one amp smaller battery but trade off lower gain but now I understand that the split is not really do able with one line being video and one remote, thanks again makes sense

In addition to what TK said, you may also want to consider the additional maintenance with running amps. You'll have more connections and cables to check (pre-flight), extra batteries to monitor and charge, etc.

If you're not losing rc/video signal with the distances and areas you're flying, then you don't have to mod your controller and/or bird. But, if you're looking for a little more "peace of mind", and a stronger/reliable signal, then just go for the antenna mod (DBS or FPVLR).

 

[sdccroses4]

I think just antenna mod will be where I would like to be I've seen a few controllers around although I envy their range I think I could manage bulk but my son's hands might be to small to hold all that frankenmonster of a controller up, he is getting pretty good at the hobby and its something we enjoy doing but the distance is more for me when I check the livestock but I can't complain head and shoulders better than the standard we had

 

[TK P3A]

Just as an option search out a DJI transmitter tray. Basically a big bracket that holds radio and let's you use a neck/shoulder strap/harness.

 

[TK P3A]

I may end up going to 1 when I get done if my radio is too heavy to hold for long periods as I like to fly two or three batteries at a time.