DISCONNECTED!

[cheddarman]

Thought I'd solved my issues but it seems not! Fixed the "cannot link" problem. Found that the multi-core ribbon cable at the bottom of the RC Interface Board wasn't pushed right home. Fixed that and I have now linked the RC/.AC and can fly the drone just fine - visually.

Nvidia Shield is blank and displays "Disconnected".

Any suggestions please? Defective Interface Board in the RC??

 

[cheddarman]

Just stripped the RC down again, checked the ribbon cable was tight in the main board and the `Interface board, re soldered the USB pins into the Interface board but still the same problem.

Thought I'd change my monitor so downloaded the DJI GO App onto my iPhone but can't get it to open the drone in the App. Just get the "How to connect" message instead of "Camera". Does this mean that my iPhone 12 is not campatible with the App?

 

[tribar]

It means there's NO communication between the remote and the smartdevice.
Likely still a problem with your remote.

 

[cheddarman]

Thanks, I have established but whether the problem is in the RC or my tablet remains to be seen. I have changed the USB interface in the RC but no different.

 

[tribar]

You have the same problem with your iPhone. Are they both broken?

 

[cheddarman]

My iPhone is a 12 Mini, 2020 whereas the GO App is 2015 so I can understand that they are not compatible.
The Shield is about the same era as the APP and has worked just fine for five years!
As I said, it all started when I let the RC battery go flat. Took a while to get it to charge but did it. Then I couldn't link RC/AC but also sorted that out.
Now it's just that the tablet shows "disconnected". I can fly the drone just fine, visually and take pictures so the RC/AC are both working fine EXCEPT the RC isn't connected to the tablet.

 

[tribar]

I red all your posts from all 3 threads.

In post #3 from "iPhone 12 Mini with DJHI GO App." you wrote:
'Got a replacement Interface board coming for the transmitter.'
In post #2 from "DISCONNECTED!" you wrote:
'resoldered the USB pins into the Interface board'
In post #4:
'I have changed the USB interface in the RC but no different.'

I'm confused, is the interface board still comming or is it replaced?

The current DJI GO app in the appstore dates from 2021 NOT 2015, version 3.1.68.

Shield K1:
No need to go into developer mode and no special settings necessary.
When you connect a device to the micro-USB port, pull down the top of the screen. You see a message:
"USB charging this device, Tap for more options"
If you don't see "USB charging", then tap for more options and choose "Charge this device".

I still use the Shield K1 with P3P, P4P, Mavic Pro and Mavic Air.
The K1 is on Android 7.0
Installed are:
DJI GO v3.1.61
DJI GO 4 v4.3.37
Litchi v4.20.0_Beta
Everything works as expected.

You have convinced yourself there's nothing wrong with your RC, this makes it difficult for you to accept otherwise. It's a human trait.

 

[cheddarman]

"When you connect a device to the micro-USB port, pull down the top of the screen. You see a message:
"USB charging this device, Tap for more options"
If you don't see "USB charging", then tap for more options and choose "Charge this device".

When I plug my Shield into the RC which is turned on I get this message. Nothing about charging, but the Shield makes the blub-blub-blub noise.
I've tried three different cables all of which I'm pretty sure are working.

 

[Deleted member 62848]

Ha its been drinking to much,,,I dont have your device but I dont get any options for USB unless my device plugged into the remote, then I get the extras if I swipe down,somehow sounds like when remote plugged in it's not detecting anything but charging,,does remote work on any other devices,,
Sorry that's all I can think of,if works on another phone just to test the device ,your device gone bad,,if it dont work another device, go back to remote,,then you'll know what to look at

 

[cheddarman]

No, tried my iPhone 12 Mini, my son's iPad mini5 and his iPhone 13 - none work so I'm still leaning towards the RC

 

[Deleted member 62848]

No, tried my iPhone 12 Mini, my son's iPad mini5 and his iPhone 13 - none work so I'm still leaning towards the RC

Yeh till you know exactly which part is given up it sucks buying bits to test if they not work,,I would be inclined to look for a cheap replacement remote if possible, it might work out cheaper in the long run and get you back flying,some trouble shooting it's just easier to replace the whole thing (remote).
I buy you one if I could

 

[cheddarman]

Ah, thank you Ianzone. They're about £100 ($140) here on Ebay with a 12 month warranty so might be cheaper than sending the whole thing off for service.

 

[tribar]

"When you connect a device to the micro-USB port, pull down the top of the screen. You see a message:
"USB charging this device, Tap for more options"
If you don't see "USB charging", then tap for more options and choose "Charge this device".

When I plug my Shield into the RC which is turned on I get this message. Nothing about charging, but the Shield makes the blub-blub-blub noise.
I've tried three different cables all of which I'm pretty sure are working.

View attachment 123309

Prey: Find My Phone & Security - Apps op Google Play

Device Tracking & Security tool om de controle te houden over telefoons, laptops en tablets.

play.google.com

 

[Harleydude]

I haven't read all the replies, so here's my 2 cents based on the OP. Forgive and ignore if this advice is redundant.

There are 3 levels of connection:

1) Disconnected (Gray): The iPad is not connected to the RC.
2) Aircraft Disconnected (Red): The iPad is connected to the RC, but the RC is not connected to aircraft.
3) Ready to Fly (Green): The iPad is connected to the RC and the RC is connected to the AC.

So if you're getting a "Disconnected" status, you need to look at the connection between the iPad and the RC. If you're focused on the AC you are barking up the wrong tree. I have read in this forum about RC USB ports going South. I assume you have tried different Lightning cables. And if it were me, I would try different iPads just to eliminate that from the equation. Some iPads and iOS's aren't compatible with some versions of the Go and Go4 apps. So this may be a simple compatibility issue.

Another experiment you can do is to fly the bird sans iPad. That's how we did it in the old days anyway...didn't have no steenkin' iPads. Do you have the green light on your RC? Can you fly it? If so, this takes us full circle back to connection issues between the RC and the iPad.

I personally won't take anything apart or "fix it" until I'm 100% positive that that hardware is malfunctioning. Fortunately, you have many troubleshooting tools at your disposal to know WHERE the problem is before you break out the screwdriver and soldering iron.

Good luck.

D

 

[cheddarman]

Thanks Harleydude. As I said kin my original post, the drone is connected to the RC, I can fly perfectly well.
It is the RC not connecting to my Nvidia Shield all mod a sudden. It's worked perfectly for years!
Any Idea where I can find a USB Interface board for the GL300B remote controller.There are plenty out there for the GL300C but not the B. Apparently, according to the repair shop that just serviced my P3A there are slight differences and right now my Shield will not connect!

I don't have an iPad and my iPhone 12 mini gives the same result so I am thinking it's the USB board!

 

[Harleydude]

Thanks Harleydude. As I said kin my original post, the drone is connected to the RC, I can fly perfectly well.
It is the RC not connecting to my Nvidia Shield all mod a sudden. It's worked perfectly for years!

So this can be only 1 of 3 things:

1) Bad cable (which I'm sure is the first thing you checked)
2) Bad port on the Nvidia Shield (a tablet I have never heard of)
3) Nvidia firmware/software update rendering it no longer compatible with your RC

I would look at your Nvidia update logs to see if you can find a correlation.

Any Idea where I can find a USB Interface board for the GL300B remote controller. There are plenty out there for the GL300C but not the B. Apparently, according to the repair shop that just serviced my P3A there are slight differences and right now my Shield will not connect!

I don't have an iPad and my iPhone 12 mini gives the same result so I am thinking it's the USB board!

I would beg, borrow, steal a legacy iPad before blaming the USB port. The P3A is a legacy device, so I would NOT assume that it will connect with modern peripherals.

I just purchased an iPhone 5 on eBay for 27 bux (to be used in my Mini Cooper as a gauge cluster). 27 bux!!

D

 

[cheddarman]

So this can be only 1 of 3 things:

1) Bad cable (which I'm sure is the first thing you checked)
2) Bad port on the Nvidia Shield (a tablet I have never heard of)
3) Nvidia firmware/software update rendering it no longer compatible with your RC

I have just had my kit back from Drone Optix who changed the Remote for a refurbished one and it all works just fine with the Nvidia Shield.
In fact I sent the Shield and its cable with the drone and they confirmed that there was no issues with them, so MUST be in the controller and the first thing in the controller is the USB board

 

[Harleydude]

I have just had my kit back from Drone Optix who changed the Remote for a refurbished one and it all works just fine with the Nvidia Shield.

So you have a whole new remote? So I guess we'll never know the problem with the old remote.

In fact I sent the Shield and its cable with the drone and they confirmed that there was no issues with them, so MUST be in the controller and the first thing in the controller is the USB board

Copy that. Did the USB port show any signs of physical damage? Did Drone Optix troubleshoot the old remote? Or did they simply give you a new one without troubleshooting the old one??

This is just one of many reasons why I have multiple remotes.

D

 

[dirkclod]

When you downloaded go to the other devices you did log in right

 

[cheddarman]

So you have a whole new remote? So I guess we'll never know the problem with the old remote.

Copy that. Did the USB port show any signs of physical damage? Did Drone Optix troubleshoot the old remote? Or did they simply give you a new one without troubleshooting the old one??

This is just one of many reasons why I have multiple remotes.

D

Yes I have a new GL300B controller but now I'm trying to fix the old one so to start need a USB interface board for the old GL300B controller. As I said in post #15, there are plenty out there for the GL300C but not the B. I've emailed DJI..............