Should I be bummed?

[Sim597]

Hi all, been lurking around here since I bought my P3P and posted replies a few times, tried to contribute as best a new guy to this type of flying can.
Before I get too far into this I actually did some searches here in the forum for a little more info on models.
I bought this drone from Best Buy with free battery like 2-3 weeks ago now.
Im making a long long story a little shorter here, I've found that the parts inside where screws go are just crumbling away, I've been back inside the remote no less than five times now fixing things after hearing tiny plastic rattling around
Guys, ahh man guys. I can't believe this. I been draining the battery to the TX because I haven't done a full drain to condition the TX yet, and even tho it's a lithium..... Bla bla right. So, today the **** RTH button, out of the blue, crashed inside on me, this is literally the 6th time I think taking it apart. By that I mean it "fell" inside. These are screws I wasn't anywhere near, under the main board, so It wasn't me, you won't believe me, but neither were the other broken parts my fault, even though I had worked on two of them, 3 others have broken I didn't tighten, loosen, anything.
I see there have been some RTH button mentions (haven't read an actual thread yet on it) and a fix, but didn't read about what the problem was/is.
The thing that's now bothering me is, in doing the search I saw the model numbers on the birds in the TX models' thread, and of course, I have the older (knowing my luck) suckier W322A aircraft with the 300B controller. So I got drilled didn't I? I do think it has the newer motors though by what I've read, I will double check but I'm almost certain there new style.
Dang it, so even if I get the remote all fixed up, I'm hoping I got it all this time, I've still got an old brand new drone, with a modded remote that has enough "bondo" in It to fix a caddy.
I really wish I hadn't even done the mod now, I'll never fly even a mike away, I got it for penatration and reliability. The way it's crumbling apart tho, maybe it's better because it very well mighta been doing it anyway.
I went thru and deleted a bunch of words here trying to make it as easy to follow as possible so if I left something out or any questions feel free to ask, or add any input to please.
Sorry it's so long, thanks in advance for any advice guys.
Not sure as its my first but I tried to put a small thumb of the screw set and maybe you guys can tell what motors I have.

 

[flpholt]

return to best buy don't fool with it

 

[Richard Walker]

Take it back immediately if not sooner.

 

[flpholt]

run don't walk return itttttttttttttttttttttt

 

[exit 4]

Take it back. I heard some have had an issue with the nth button falling in. My controller is one of them. Best buy will take it back and you can get a new one and start over. Good luck.

 

[TheLightSpeedz]

I think he's saying he nodded the remote. Depending on what he did I don't think they will take it back?


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[TheLightSpeedz]

Modded correction


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[TheLightSpeedz]

And those are the NEW motors.


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[ShayneL]

I have a buddy that had the same problems but when he noticed the problems he sent the remote back to dji. Dji contacted him and told him to send his whole drone back and they would be sending him a brand new set up. Now that it has the glue and stuff in it I don't know if they would do the same but it should definitely be tried


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[RusWolf]

Exchange it at BB, Why even open the remote the 1st time?

And i have the same models as you and i bought it from BB as well.

Also, the models W323 A and B have small differences, not improvements IMHO.

From what i found is that B controller is easier to mod and takes in more power or something like that. And A model bird emits wider frequency range. So A model is fine IMHO. Keep in mind that FAA started jumping on everyones heads 3-4 months back so thats where W323B may have came in.

IF i am wrong please correct me and explain which one is better 323A or B.

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[Meta4]

maybe you guys can tell what motors I have.

Those are the newer type motors - the current model.

 

[NRJ]

Not your fault, just take it back and demand a refund. If they say they won't, just make a scene. They will do it. Take your wife or girlfriend. They can get away with making a scene. Lol. Just take it back!

 

[Sim597]

Thanks you guys. In trying to make the whole post shorter because I was afraid it was too long and i tend to ramble...
Yeah the remote it heavily modded, and even though I have a 45 day return, I'd use it if the bird was fecked. I see some have said good news, is that they are the new motors (not that that even matters) but more important is the "a" model doesn't mean it's a crappy bird.
I say heavily modded because I put the Itlitle DBS antenna on it and drilled holes thru it. What I could do is buy another bird and put the brand new remote in the old package so the return wouldn't be, um, suspect.
I took out a bunch of info I'd originally put down, and feel I owe the fine guys here that actually posted here an explanation. Here it goes as short as I can make it.
The install was smooth as silk, it was like the next day or two I had my first problem but think it was software as it was just the camera setting screen, it wouldn't come up on my iPhone, with a C2 rear button , it actually wouldn't leave the screen, it came up. Now the reason I don't think there was something stuck, or a hardware failure is, I could hear it beeping when pushed, and the fact it worked after that perfectly. I think it was then the next day a rattle, bad one and a screw I had not messed with (camera setting dials holder inside) had broken free and was loose. I fixed that, oh, yeah this was after initial test showed I had pulled the video button ribbon loose, so I was in there for that before the screw deal, so that's like 3 openings with install, button fix and loose screw. Then, no kidding, another rattle the next day! Lol it's like a bad dream, I took the plugs off the antenna and tiny plastic pieces came out, I was like wth? How can this be going on? That was four, then I believe the RTH button plowed in, that fix, as the first one didn't work with super glue, is where I finally started looking at all the dumb female posts and now knowing there is a definite problem, and it's that they are too thin. Remember this is on stuff I had no reason, or reason to not tell you guys, that I didn't touch those. If it had been screws I had dealt with, well, then it's user error, this is not. The remote looks fine, I'll post a pic, it's not all glued and coddled together like it sounds.
Without going too far into it, I'm more then capable of not over tasking and over torquing the screws. I'm a retired/disabled mechanic (Pipefitter with 3 broken backs before I lost everything in bankruptcy when I got too hurt to go on. And I hate those who collect disability who don't need or deserve it)
I apologize, warned you I ramble..lol
So it's put together, with the Mod and I got it all together with a minimal test with props off to check controls and buttons. The RTH is in position and solid and no more rattling or loose screws. So if this all holds true I see some of you don't think there is too much I'm losing out on with the remote model and bird? Again, that's if I have the initial BS worked out of course.
I would add this, if Best Buy stocks the P4 in the next month, and if, it's a big if, if the controller are the same as the P3P, maybe I could spend the extra $400 buy the P4 and return the P3P with the New controller? That wouldn't be suspect at least if they're the same. Of course no matter what, I will be stuck with this controller, that's why I wanted to really get it working right and concerned about it looks, I don't want a raggy TXer lol.
I only paid like $625 out of pocket for the bird as it is, had a bunch of certs from BB of $375 and got a free battery to boot.
Thanks again everyone, especially those who read thru this ridiculously long response. From what some of you said I should be OK as long as the controller is solid.

 

[happydays]

Let me try and see if I can decipher this post. OP, you modded the controller - is that right? Then some screw sockets started breaking off because you heard rattling, so you opened up the controller and bonded the parts back in place. In the process of modifying the controller, you pulled a ribbon cable off. Then the RTH button fell inside because the screw sockets crumbled so you opened it up again and rebonded the parts back.

And some folks are thinking of advising you to return this controller? Really?

Guys, think for a second what happens to returned items. I know it's a US culture thing to be able to return goods within a certain period. But the OP has modded the controller, damaged it, repaired it and you want him to return it so that it will be someone else's problem?

When you return goods for a refund, they don't get tossed away. They get resold. And then the problem becomes someone else's.

 

[NRJ]

Let me try and see if I can decipher this post. OP, you modded the controller - is that right? Then some screw sockets started breaking off because you heard rattling, so you opened up the controller and bonded the parts back in place. In the process of modifying the controller, you pulled a ribbon cable off. Then the RTH button fell inside because the screw sockets crumbled so you opened it up again and rebonded the parts back.

And some folks are thinking of advising you to return this controller? Really?

Guys, think for a second what happens to returned items. I know it's a US culture thing to be able to return goods within a certain period. But the OP has modded the controller, damaged it, repaired it and you want him to return it so that it will be someone else's problem?

When you return goods for a refund, they don't get tossed away. They get resold. And then the problem becomes someone else's.

Begging your pardon. They only get resold if they can be fixed which would then be considered re-furbished. The way this is explained, is that the entire product was a total defect. First he shouldn't have attempted a fix himself. Then he should have queried this forum for solutions and ultimately to send it back immediately once he heard rattling inside. To me it seems like this was a returned drone before and was put back on the shelf to resell by mistake. Best Buy would have given him another working model and may still give him another to keep a customer happy.

 

[Sim597]

Let me try and see if I can decipher this post. OP, you modded the controller - is that right? Then some screw sockets started breaking off because you heard rattling, so you opened up the controller and bonded the parts back in place. In the process of modifying the controller, you pulled a ribbon cable off. Then the RTH button fell inside because the screw sockets crumbled so you opened it up again and rebonded the parts back.

And some folks are thinking of advising you to return this controller? Really?

Guys, think for a second what happens to returned items. I know it's a US culture thing to be able to return goods within a certain period. But the OP has modded the controller, damaged it, repaired it and you want him to return it so that it will be someone else's problem?

When you return goods for a refund, they don't get tossed away. They get resold. And then the problem becomes someone else's.

I think some of the guys didn't read whole post or something. Yeah basically I modded it then noticed all the crumbling, might have happened anyway.
As it stands now, The remote is fine, now that's it's been fixed and spend hours doing it. Im looking on eBay for a non modded remote, if I can get one for a decent price ($114 high bid but it won't hold I don't think, $150 maybe cheapest) If I get one I'll make sure they're "leashed" together and working 100%.
I doubt anyone was saying to take advantage and pull a fast one. In reality I'll chock this up to learning experience if it cost me $150+ to buy a remote to exchange it for a P4. I'd still be ahead of the game for what I actually paid, but in all reality, I'll likely just stick this out. The thing has flown perfectly for 17-18 flights besides the glitch in the screen for camera control, and hasn't done that since, and hearing it isn't a crappy model or old tech I'm pretty happy about that to be honest.
Thanks again all for your time
. .
.

 

[Sim597]

Not your fault, just take it back and demand a refund. If they say they won't, just make a scene. They will do it. Take your wife or girlfriend. They can get away with making a scene. Lol. Just take it back!

Your right about it not being my fault, but modding it has left me with this remote no matter what I do.
The bird was spanking new, the processes in manufacturing the plastic shells is garbage tho. The only positive of the whole thing is, the way the post crumbled without me touching those parts, means it was probably going to anyway, at least I was able to fix it before something shorted out and crashed the bird. But I can't be sure, if left alone it might have been fine and come April 1st I could have just upgraded, now to upgrade I'll have to buy a non modded remote to put in its place

 

[redonk]

Your right about it not being my fault, but modding it has left me with this remote no matter what I do.
The bird was spanking new, the processes in manufacturing the plastic shells is garbage tho. The only positive of the whole thing is, the way the post crumbled without me touching those parts, means it was probably going to anyway, at least I was able to fix it before something shorted out and crashed the bird. But I can't be sure, if left alone it might have been fine and come April 1st I could have just upgraded, now to upgrade I'll have to buy a non modded remote to put in its place

I had a RC that had issues with the screw post crumbling. Never noticed until my RTH button fell into the controller. When I opened the RC 75% of the posts had been in various stages of cracking and crumbling. The controller was only a few months old and had never been dropped or abused. To me it seems like they had a production run that had a bad batch of plastic and quality control never caught it. The plastic is way too brittle to be used on something like screw posts. Had my warrantied, but my RC was never modded.

 

[TheLightSpeedz]

Your right about it not being my fault, but modding it has left me with this remote no matter what I do.
The bird was spanking new, the processes in manufacturing the plastic shells is garbage tho. The only positive of the whole thing is, the way the post crumbled without me touching those parts, means it was probably going to anyway, at least I was able to fix it before something shorted out and crashed the bird. But I can't be sure, if left alone it might have been fine and come April 1st I could have just upgraded, now to upgrade I'll have to buy a non modded remote to put in its place

Just take your antenna off, and put it all back in the packaging and return it. You have a 50/50 chance of them taking it.

OR get a new R/C! They're so cheap right now! A few hundred to get the one you want.

Just be more careful. I crumbled a screw hole too when I did mine. I just lived with it!


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[TheLightSpeedz]

View attachment 48318 Thanks you guys. In trying to make the whole post shorter because I was afraid it was too long and i tend to ramble...
Yeah the remote it heavily modded, and even though I have a 45 day return, I'd use it if the bird was fecked. I see some have said good news, is that they are the new motors (not that that even matters) but more important is the "a" model doesn't mean it's a crappy bird.
I say heavily modded because I put the Itlitle DBS antenna on it and drilled holes thru it. What I could do is buy another bird and put the brand new remote in the old package so the return wouldn't be, um, suspect.
I took out a bunch of info I'd originally put down, and feel I owe the fine guys here that actually posted here an explanation. Here it goes as short as I can make it.
The install was smooth as silk, it was like the next day or two I had my first problem but think it was software as it was just the camera setting screen, it wouldn't come up on my iPhone, with a C2 rear button , it actually wouldn't leave the screen, it came up. Now the reason I don't think there was something stuck, or a hardware failure is, I could hear it beeping when pushed, and the fact it worked after that perfectly. I think it was then the next day a rattle, bad one and a screw I had not messed with (camera setting dials holder inside) had broken free and was loose. I fixed that, oh, yeah this was after initial test showed I had pulled the video button ribbon loose, so I was in there for that before the screw deal, so that's like 3 openings with install, button fix and loose screw. Then, no kidding, another rattle the next day! Lol it's like a bad dream, I took the plugs off the antenna and tiny plastic pieces came out, I was like wth? How can this be going on? That was four, then I believe the RTH button plowed in, that fix, as the first one didn't work with super glue, is where I finally started looking at all the dumb female posts and now knowing there is a definite problem, and it's that they are too thin. Remember this is on stuff I had no reason, or reason to not tell you guys, that I didn't touch those. If it had been screws I had dealt with, well, then it's user error, this is not. The remote looks fine, I'll post a pic, it's not all glued and coddled together like it sounds.
Without going too far into it, I'm more then capable of not over tasking and over torquing the screws. I'm a retired/disabled mechanic (Pipefitter with 3 broken backs before I lost everything in bankruptcy when I got too hurt to go on. And I hate those who collect disability who don't need or deserve it)
I apologize, warned you I ramble..lol
So it's put together, with the Mod and I got it all together with a minimal test with props off to check controls and buttons. The RTH is in position and solid and no more rattling or loose screws. So if this all holds true I see some of you don't think there is too much I'm losing out on with the remote model and bird? Again, that's if I have the initial BS worked out of course.
I would add this, if Best Buy stocks the P4 in the next month, and if, it's a big if, if the controller are the same as the P3P, maybe I could spend the extra $400 buy the P4 and return the P3P with the New controller? That wouldn't be suspect at least if they're the same. Of course no matter what, I will be stuck with this controller, that's why I wanted to really get it working right and concerned about it looks, I don't want a raggy TXer lol.
I only paid like $625 out of pocket for the bird as it is, had a bunch of certs from BB of $375 and got a free battery to boot.
Thanks again everyone, especially those who read thru this ridiculously long response. From what some of you said I should be OK as long as the controller is solid.

Or you could sell the whole thing and get a new one. You can sell it for good money towards a P4 maybe.


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