It always happens to the other guy

[wichkans]

Well it happened, after viewing several posts here on the topic of cracks my prized P3A has developed two small cracks, not on the motor mount screw but the one just inside, looks to be a screw that holds the two shell's together.

When I purchase a replacement shell is their somewhere that has a better quality? Is the replacement just as likely to crack without obvious cause as the original or was the original crack due to plastic defect what will not likely show up in the replacement.

Thanks.

 

[1buddyc]

Cracks that occur in specific areas are usually caused by overtightening..

 

[macoman]

Cracks that occur in specific areas are usually caused by overtightening..

That's right... I have this:

Mine still rock solid and have never developed any crack.

 

[DanMan32]

Shouldn't be an overtightening issue for the cracks wickans describes. I have a slight crack in the screw well where the side of the well separated slightly from the side of the body. I tried filling inside with plast-aid but that made a huge mess for me that I had to dremel out. Many others had good success in using plast-aid as a fix and preventative.

 

[macoman]

Shouldn't be an overtightening issue for the cracks wickans describes. I have a slight crack in the screw well where the side of the well separated slightly from the side of the body. I tried filling inside with plast-aid but that made a huge mess for me that I had to dremel out. Many others had good success in using plast-aid as a fix and preventative.

Use metal plate like me and you will keep your drone like new without any cracks plus use also extra landing gear to make soft landing when the aircraft touch the ground.

 

[Phantom2USA]

source plate & explain "extra" landing gear?
Thanks

 

[wichkans]

Hello again, thanks for your input, could someone please give me some input on the questions I asked about in my original post, let's just pretend that the crack was not caused by overtightened screws.
Thank you.

 

[macoman]

source plate & explain "extra" landing gear?
Thanks

I use these ones and make the landing very soft to the aircraft:

 

[wichkans]

LOL, never mind.

 

[crash1sttime]

I use these ones and make the landing very soft to the aircraft:

I've got those legs, first time it autolanded in grass the dam thing nearly tipped itself over. My errror as I usually hand catch but was testing RTH accuracy.

 

[macoman]

I've got those legs, first time it autolanded in grass the dam thing nearly tipped itself over. My errror as I usually hand catch but was testing RTH accuracy.

Never have issues with these legs. I always take off and land manually.

 

[Steve7777]

Hello again, thanks for your input, could someone please give me some input on the questions I asked about in my original post, let's just pretend that the crack was not caused by overtightened screws.
Thank you.

There's no guarantee that any new shell you buy will not also develop cracks - some people here have reported recurrence of cracks on a replacement shell.

However, that having been said, it's my opinion that the number of shell crack failures relative to the number of P3s sold is relatively small. I don't think DJI ever addressed the cause of the problems satisfactorily nor found a solution, although some mods were made (change of motor spec to 2312A and slightly modified shell motor mounts), possibly in an attempt to do this. I don't think there is any particular supplier who supplies 'better' quality shells, as they're most likely all from the same factory/ies.

Having hopefully now replied to your actual query, it's probably a good idea (if I may ) to look at how to minimise the risk of cracks re-appearing on your re-shelled drone. These include fitting reinforcement plates and checking how tight the screws are, assuming you don't re-shell it yourself. If they seem too tight, then back them off, say 1/8th-1/4 of a turn.

My method was to leave in place the mountings for a set of prop guards which were fitted from new, and up till now (as far as I can see) I have no cracks developing (touch wood). Mind you, my flying is not 'aggressive' - my P3P is, after all, a flying camera platform, not a racing quad.

 

[solentlife]

If you have ever opened up the shell ... you find that the bottom half is very flexible on those arms ! I was shocked at how much they could move with the top shell on and stiffening it up.

I had cracks appear on one arm about 2 months after getting my P3S ... I could see that replacement shell would not cure it - so I repaired and fitted end plates.

The arms were stiffened but few months later - more cracks appeared .... with the plates basically holding it together.

I repaired these extra cracks and also ran resin inside to give strength ... being careful NOT to get any where motors mount.

One point about the plates .... you must fit all screws including the two with the short tubes ... those two stiffen the arm at the weakest point.

If I was to have a new shell - I would immediately fit plates before cracks appear.

Second - I would not think prop guards to be any preventative measure as they will apply weight as a lever on the ends of the arms.

Nigel

 

[Steve7777]

Second - I would not think prop guards to be any preventative measure as they will apply weight as a lever on the ends of the arms.

Nigel

As stated, not the prop guards themselves but the mounts only..... I abandoned using the prop guards on my first day.

In effect a sort of plastic reinforcement plate but on the 4 motor screws only, not including the 2 other screws furthest from the tip of the arm.

 

[solentlife]

As stated, not the prop guards themselves but the mounts only..... I abandoned using the prop guards on my first day.

In effect a sort of plastic reinforcement plate but on the 4 motor screws only, not including the 2 other screws furthest from the tip of the arm.

I made mistake of not fitting those two inner screws and tubes - I think that was part of reason the plates did not solve the problem better. To this day - I don't know why I didn't fit them.

Nigel

 

[hrosee]

Plast-aid is the best deal to stop the cracks. Just don't put too much in like the other guy did.

 

[Matts175]

Put some Super Glue on it and call it good. Seriously. It will be fine. I flew mine 25 times with super glue on it and it was 100% OK. I sent it to DJI a few weeks ago for a completely unrelated repair.... so I had them change the lower shell while it was there. If I wouldn't have had to send it in, I'd still be flying with that super glue on there. You should have seen my previous quad (Syma X5SC). It was literally held together by zip ties and tape and it still flew like a champ.

Anyways, Loctite Brand "Professional" super glue is the absolute best, IMO. You can get it at Home Depot.

 

[Cometstorm]

Having hopefully now replied to your actual query, it's probably a good idea (if I may ) to look at how to minimise the risk of cracks re-appearing on your re-shelled drone. These include fitting reinforcement plates and checking how tight the screws are, assuming you don't re-shell it yourself. If they seem too tight, then back them off, say 1/8th-1/4 of a turn.

My method was to leave in place the mountings for a set of prop guards which were fitted from new, and up till now (as far as I can see) I have no cracks developing (touch wood). Mind you, my flying is not 'aggressive' - my P3P is, after all, a flying camera platform, not a racing quad.

You're describing my P3A perfectly.

Just removed my guards after my first two months of ownership, but left the guard mounting plates on.

Did the screw back off thing first day of ownership. Most were OK, a few were super tight from the factory. UGH, the disparity! Glad I caught that while visiting this forum before ownership.

I always manual land on the ground (usually grass), and have the landing gear mentioned above.

Nice to see them ever so slightly "flex" upon touchdown.

Having them and a gimbal guard plate installed gives me a lot of comfort.

And, OH THOSE STROBACON STROBES! Me likey!

 

[wichkans]

[URL][URL][/URL][/URL]

There's no guarantee that any new shell you buy will not also develop cracks - some people here have reported recurrence of cracks on a replacement shell.

However, that having been said, it's my opinion that the number of shell crack failures relative to the number of P3s sold is relatively small. I don't think DJI ever addressed the cause of the problems satisfactorily nor found a solution, although some mods were made (change of motor spec to 2312A and slightly modified shell motor mounts), possibly in an attempt to do this. I don't think there is any particular supplier who supplies 'better' quality shells, as they're most likely all from the same factory/ies.

Having hopefully now replied to your actual query, it's probably a good idea (if I may ) to look at how to minimise the risk of cracks re-appearing on your re-shelled drone. These include fitting reinforcement plates and checking how tight the screws are, assuming you don't re-shell it yourself. If they seem too tight, then back them off, say 1/8th-1/4 of a turn.

My method was to leave in place the mountings for a set of prop guards which were fitted from new, and up till now (as far as I can see) I have no cracks developing (touch wood). Mind you, my flying is not 'aggressive' - my P3P is, after all, a flying camera platform, not a racing quad.

Thank you Steve, very helpful

 

[Melvoid]

Never have issues with these legs. I always take off and land manually.

Where do you get these legs and/or what are they called?