How I added a panoramic photosphere to Google Maps using my Phantom 3 Advanced

dmark1867 · Feb 21, 2016

This is lengthy and I am sure it is far from the best method to accomplish this. These are my notes and they are what worked for me. It may be flawed and overly cumbersome, but again this is just what works for me and I thought I would share it.

Here is my resulting Google Maps Photosphere
Huntington, WV Memorial Arch: Google Maps
(Next time I will go when there is less wind and better lighting and hopefully I will get a better result)

What I used:
Phantom 3 drone (of course)
Litchi App
Microsoft Image Composite Editor
GeoSetter
Photoshop 5.5 64bit
photosphere.xmp (available here http://users.marshall.edu/~deutschl/photosphere.xmp, right click and save as)
Notepad++
Google+ Account
Google Maps
Google URL Shortener

Steps

1st
Go to maps.google.com and search for the location that you want to add a photosphere.
To add a photosphere the place or landmark must already exist on google maps.
There has to be a "place" associated with your photo for you to be able to access "Add Photo" option/button. If there is not one (ie remote locations) you could try to add it using the google maps website or try to create it using Googles Map Maker.

2nd
Capturing images to create your panoramic:
I use the PANO option in Litchi with the following settings
Type Spherical 3 Rows
Photos per Row 12

3rd
Stitching together images for the panoramic:
I use Microsoft Image Composite Editor to stitch together images
(use default settings)
Export resulting image to desktop using Quality of 100

I have also tried using PTGui & Hugin but I personally have had the best results using Microsoft Image Composite Editor (although I do believe using one of the other programs may allow for a more streamline approach to this entire process).

4th
Confirm that GPS metadata is contained with the image:
Use GeoSetter to make sure GPS information is in the image.
Right click on the file select show image position on map.

5th
Getting the proper dimensions for the photosphere:
A photosphere MUST have a width to height ratio of 2:1, if your width is 15872px the height MUST be 7936px (15872 : 2) . So you must add some black space at the top of your image.
Use Photoshop to add the space, open the image, select image-canvas size, change to pixels, adjust so that the height is 1/2 the width, click the down arrow so that it adds the extra space above the image.

6th
Adding the missing sky
(Note I tried manually pointing the phantom 3 camera up and take some images and adding them to the image but that did not work for me, next time I will try using either my phone, point & shoot camera, or DSLR to get images of the sky looking up and see if those will stitch in).

Open image with Photoshop 5.5 64bit
Use the selector tool (the rectangular marquee tool), on the left, second from the bottom and select the any small black clipping at the top of the image as well as the white part at the top, and then hit delete on my keyboard, Select the following: Contents, Use Content Aware, Blending accept default.
If after doing this any of the sky still needs fixed select that area of the sky and repeat the same process. Keep repeating this process until the sky looks good.

7th
Saving the image for Google Maps
Save the image using highest jpeg quality.
Next step is to upload to my Google+ account, but the size can be tricky
Go to Google+
Upload size of photosphere to Google+ seems to be inconsistent.
I have found that sizes under 35mb seem to work well.
I have used the following: Image size: Width 14000 by Height 7000 pixels

Test uploading image to your Google+ account
Once I have verified the image is not to large to add to my Google+ Account then delete the photo from my account.

8th
Getting the photosphere to work with Google Maps:
Open the file photosphere.xmp with notepad++
Make sure the following match the correct image width and height:
<GPano:CroppedAreaImageWidthPixels>14000</GPano:CroppedAreaImageWidthPixels>
<GPano:CroppedAreaImageHeightPixels>7000</GPano:CroppedAreaImageHeightPixels>
<GPano:FullPanoWidthPixels>14000</GPano:FullPanoWidthPixels>
<GPano:FullPanoHeightPixels>7000</GPano:FullPanoHeightPixels>
Then save the file

Open image that I was able to upload to my Google+ account with Photoshop
Once open, click on file, then File Info, then select Import.
Use Middle Import Option
Keep original metadata, but replace matching properties from template
Select photosphere.xmp and click open then click ok

9th
Adding the image to Google Maps
Then rename file to something that makes sense and upload to my google+ account (if the image is recognized as a photosphere you will see an icon in the middle of the image) post to Public and click on Share.

Then go to image location (the "place" in step 1) at maps.google.com and click on the place (remember this needs to exist already in google maps), in bottom right corner of screen select the icons to the left of the little drag and drop google person marker that is labeled "Show imagery", now from window that appears below select "Add a photo", then select "Your photos" and then select the image you just uploaded to your google+ account.

It should show up now on Google Maps. Although I have gotten strange results in chrome after posting.
On the PC I posted it from when I go there in chrome I get a bunch of exclamation marks. But if I go in IE or even in chrome from another PC it works fine. Also seems to work fine from the same PC a few days later. I have no idea why I experience this, but it does not seem to be permanent.

Good Luck!

Ed Fink · Feb 24, 2016

Somebody here or some aerial forum suggested https://www.cgskies.com/ I bought one of their skies and used it on a few of my aerials. Here's one of them on Google Maps:
Google Maps

Once the snow is gone and everything is green again I hope to shoot a bunch of 360 aerials, so I'm going to buy several different skies and mix them up as needed to match the actual sky. The Phantom gets enough of the sky above the horizon that it hasn't been too difficult to feather the new sky into the original. You can download low res samples and stretch them out to your 14k pano just to get an idea how it will look. I took one look at the sample over my sky and bought the full size one (14k I think).

The hardest part is selecting which of their awesome skies to buy!

Ed Fink
360 Degree Panoramas: Featured

dmark1867 · Feb 24, 2016

Ed your image looks great, it is too bad the samples do not work, looks like the costs for those can add up quick.
Do you have the process documented that you use to add them to your image by any chance?

Next time I think I will try taking several images of the sky with my DSLR camera and seeing if those can be stitched in. That site does have a lot of amazing skies to choose from though!

Wolfiesden · Feb 24, 2016

Just curious, why not using PS pano stitcher?

dmark1867 · Feb 24, 2016

Wolfiesden said:
Just curious, why not using PS pano stitcher?

To be 100% honest, I am not using it because I have never heard of it, nor know how to use it.
I guess you recommend it?

Wolfiesden · Feb 24, 2016

I did this with it in about 5 minutes...

Granted its not a full pano, but I didn't take all the photos needed, just a few to experiment with.

All I did was select the photos in LightRoom, and export to Photoshop as a pano.

In Photoshop alone (no Lightroom), go to File then Automate, then select Photomerge.
Not sure how long that tool has been there but I have CS5 at work and its there. At home I have CS6.

dmark1867 · Feb 24, 2016

Wolfiesden said:
I did this with it in about 5 minutes...

Granted its not a full pano, but I didn't take all the photos needed, just a few to experiment with.

All I did was select the photos in LightRoom, and export to Photoshop as a pano.

In Photoshop alone (no Lightroom), go to File then Automate, then select Photomerge.
Not sure how long that tool has been there but I have CS5 at work and its there. At home I have CS6.

Your photo looks great, I have just used ICE because it is so easy to use, I might give this a try, thanks!

Wolfiesden · Feb 24, 2016

And, I too, will give ICE a test! I asked the question because I was curious the reasons for using ICE opposed to PS which you were already using in other steps. Thought there might be a feature or somethihng ICE did that PS didn't or that ICE did better.

Do you know if ICE will read the DNG raw files from the Phantom? I know LR and PS do, thats all.

BigAl07 · Feb 24, 2016

I've used PS pano stitch and it works just great but the MS ICE is easier to use and quicker but far fewer features. Also ICE is a freebie but like I said lacks some advanced features.

dmark1867 · Feb 24, 2016

Wolfiesden said:
And, I too, will give ICE a test! I asked the question because I was curious the reasons for using ICE opposed to PS which you were already using in other steps. Thought there might be a feature or somethihng ICE did that PS didn't or that ICE did better.

Do you know if ICE will read the DNG raw files from the Phantom? I know LR and PS do, thats all.

ICE is just super easy to use. Plus I can try taking several pictures of the sky and if it can stitch them in it will and if it won't prompt me to manually specify stitch points.

Natively I do not think you can use it with RAW DNG files, but you might be able to get it to work using one of these here: WIC Codecs for Image Composite Editor

Or you could batch convert the raw files to jpgs and go that way.

Usually when I do a pano from my phantom I don't shoot raw because it seems to slow the process down.

Richard Gozinya · Apr 18, 2016

dmark1867 said:
This is lengthy and I am sure it is far from the best method to accomplish this. These are my notes and they are what worked for me. It may be flawed and overly cumbersome, but again this is just what works for me and I thought I would share it.

Here is my resulting Google Maps Photosphere
Huntington, WV Memorial Arch: Google Maps
(Next time I will go when there is less wind and better lighting and hopefully I will get a better result)

What I used:
Phantom 3 drone (of course)
Litchi App
Microsoft Image Composite Editor
GeoSetter
Photoshop 5.5 64bit
photosphere.xmp (available here http://users.marshall.edu/~deutschl/photosphere.xmp, right click and save as)
Notepad++
Google+ Account
Google Maps
Google URL Shortener

Steps

1st
Go to maps.google.com and search for the location that you want to add a photosphere.
To add a photosphere the place or landmark must already exist on google maps.
There has to be a "place" associated with your photo for you to be able to access "Add Photo" option/button. If there is not one (ie remote locations) you could try to add it using the google maps website or try to create it using Googles Map Maker.

2nd
Capturing images to create your panoramic:
I use the PANO option in Litchi with the following settings
Type Spherical 3 Rows
Photos per Row 12

3rd
Stitching together images for the panoramic:
I use Microsoft Image Composite Editor to stitch together images
(use default settings)
Export resulting image to desktop using Quality of 100

I have also tried using PTGui & Hugin but I personally have had the best results using Microsoft Image Composite Editor (although I do believe using one of the other programs may allow for a more streamline approach to this entire process).

4th
Confirm that GPS metadata is contained with the image:
Use GeoSetter to make sure GPS information is in the image.
Right click on the file select show image position on map.

5th
Getting the proper dimensions for the photosphere:
A photosphere MUST have a width to height ratio of 2:1, if your width is 15872px the height MUST be 7936px (15872 : 2) . So you must add some black space at the top of your image.
Use Photoshop to add the space, open the image, select image-canvas size, change to pixels, adjust so that the height is 1/2 the width, click the down arrow so that it adds the extra space above the image.

6th
Adding the missing sky
(Note I tried manually pointing the phantom 3 camera up and take some images and adding them to the image but that did not work for me, next time I will try using either my phone, point & shoot camera, or DSLR to get images of the sky looking up and see if those will stitch in).

Open image with Photoshop 5.5 64bit
Use the selector tool (the rectangular marquee tool), on the left, second from the bottom and select the any small black clipping at the top of the image as well as the white part at the top, and then hit delete on my keyboard, Select the following: Contents, Use Content Aware, Blending accept default.
If after doing this any of the sky still needs fixed select that area of the sky and repeat the same process. Keep repeating this process until the sky looks good.

7th
Saving the image for Google Maps
Save the image using highest jpeg quality.
Next step is to upload to my Google+ account, but the size can be tricky
Go to Google+
Upload size of photosphere to Google+ seems to be inconsistent.
I have found that sizes under 35mb seem to work well.
I have used the following: Image size: Width 14000 by Height 7000 pixels

Test uploading image to your Google+ account
Once I have verified the image is not to large to add to my Google+ Account then delete the photo from my account.

8th
Getting the photosphere to work with Google Maps:
Open the file photosphere.xmp with notepad++
Make sure the following match the correct image width and height:
<GPano:CroppedAreaImageWidthPixels>14000</GPano:CroppedAreaImageWidthPixels>
<GPano:CroppedAreaImageHeightPixels>7000</GPano:CroppedAreaImageHeightPixels>
<GPano:FullPanoWidthPixels>14000</GPano:FullPanoWidthPixels>
<GPano:FullPanoHeightPixels>7000</GPano:FullPanoHeightPixels>
Then save the file

Open image that I was able to upload to my Google+ account with Photoshop
Once open, click on file, then File Info, then select Import.
Use Middle Import Option
Keep original metadata, but replace matching properties from template
Select photosphere.xmp and click open then click ok

9th
Adding the image to Google Maps
Then rename file to something that makes sense and upload to my google+ account (if the image is recognized as a photosphere you will see an icon in the middle of the image) post to Public and click on Share.

Then go to image location (the "place" in step 1) at maps.google.com and click on the place (remember this needs to exist already in google maps), in bottom right corner of screen select the icons to the left of the little drag and drop google person marker that is labeled "Show imagery", now from window that appears below select "Add a photo", then select "Your photos" and then select the image you just uploaded to your google+ account.

It should show up now on Google Maps. Although I have gotten strange results in chrome after posting.
On the PC I posted it from when I go there in chrome I get a bunch of exclamation marks. But if I go in IE or even in chrome from another PC it works fine. Also seems to work fine from the same PC a few days later. I have no idea why I experience this, but it does not seem to be permanent.

Good Luck!

Awesome informative post. I found it because I was searching for a way to pad the corners with clouds in photoshop. You solution works better than I had hoped. Thank you OP

Imabiggles · Apr 18, 2016

Ed Fink said:
Somebody here or some aerial forum suggested https://www.cgskies.com/ I bought one of their skies and used it on a few of my aerials. Here's one of them on Google Maps:
Google Maps

Once the snow is gone and everything is green again I hope to shoot a bunch of 360 aerials, so I'm going to buy several different skies and mix them up as needed to match the actual sky. The Phantom gets enough of the sky above the horizon that it hasn't been too difficult to feather the new sky into the original. You can download low res samples and stretch them out to your 14k pano just to get an idea how it will look. I took one look at the sample over my sky and bought the full size one (14k I think).

The hardest part is selecting which of their awesome skies to buy!

Ed Fink
360 Degree Panoramas: Featured

Alternately, get a good camera and take a manual pano of the sky, accomplishes the same thing. Heck, even a decent phone camera can do it. Youre weakest pics are from the phantom so having the highest resolution is not that critical (just take at or above resolution of phantom pic). You just have to make sure you frame the ground object to be lower than the horizon. If a building peaks above the horizon line, it becomes more challenging, but certainly doable in editing.

dmark1867 · Apr 19, 2016

Richard Gozinya said:
Awesome informative post. I found it because I was searching for a way to pad the corners with clouds in photoshop. You solution works better than I had hoped. Thank you OP

I am glad it helped

dmark1867 · Apr 19, 2016

Imabiggles said:
Alternately, get a good camera and take a manual pano of the sky, accomplishes the same thing. Heck, even a decent phone camera can do it. Youre weakest pics are from the phantom so having the highest resolution is not that critical (just take at or above resolution of phantom pic). You just have to make sure you frame the ground object to be lower than the horizon. If a building peaks above the horizon line, it becomes more challenging, but certainly doable in editing.

Depending on the clouds I have had limiting success with how well the stitching works when doing this method, sometimes it works out well though.

Imabiggles · Apr 19, 2016

dmark1867 said:
Depending on the clouds I have had limiting success with how well the stitching works when doing this method, sometimes it works out well though.

include the horizon. I use google pano from there app and it never had an issue.

dmark1867 · Apr 20, 2016

Imabiggles said:
include the horizon. I use google pano from there app and it never had an issue.

I will give that a shot, thanks

Richard Gozinya · Apr 25, 2016

I'm getting a pano of approximately 15000 x 5000 pixels using ICE as a stitcher yielding a 3:1 aspect ratio. How are you getting these things to a 2:1 aspect ratio? Are you padding the vertical with extra clouds at the top?

Imabiggles · Apr 25, 2016

Richard Gozinya said:
I'm getting a pano of approximately 15000 x 5000 pixels using ICE as a stitcher yielding a 3:1 aspect ratio. How are you getting these things to a 2:1 aspect ratio? Are you padding the vertical with extra clouds at the top?

2:1 panos? thats a whole lot of verticle for no reason (sky is kind of boring). just deal with non-standard aspects. I think Ice has limits on aspects, I use Gigapan

dmark1867 · Apr 25, 2016

Richard Gozinya said:
I'm getting a pano of approximately 15000 x 5000 pixels using ICE as a stitcher yielding a 3:1 aspect ratio. How are you getting these things to a 2:1 aspect ratio? Are you padding the vertical with extra clouds at the top?

Correct, look at steps 5 and 6 from my original post.

berandom · Jan 12, 2017

I have spent hours trying to get this to work. Things I have found out: PS pano stitcher doesn't work for photo spheres from a drone, unless i'm missing something. if you use the sphere option or auto, it tries to do a sphere, which it is, except you have no sky and it forces part of the image to be the top half and ruins the perspective. PS needs all of the images to stitch correctly, like if you shot it from a DSLR or anything that can shoot all directions and have a full spheres worth of images, it would work. The program that I found which works best for me is Microsoft ICE and it knows the sky is missing, I make it and export it into PS and add in sky, but then i tried to edit the meta data and the google photo sphere uploader still didn't recognize it. I am stuck at that level and i did find a website that will make it a photo sphere but it is for google cardboard and my daydream headset which i use to look at them in detail doesn't show it correctly (it is fuzzy). I do not have a lot of meta data editing experience and if someone has some advice on what i may be doing wrong, I'd be happy to hear it. I love photo spheres and i was very excited when i got my drone to take aerial photo spheres and I really didn't imagine it being so hard to accomplish.

I hope i answered the question about PS photo stitcher and if anyone knows how i can correct that or if there are any new programs for doing this, that would be helpful. I have downloaded a couple trial versions of paid programs, and none of them will let me test it fully enough to want to buy the paid versions.

Thank you for your time
Brandon