Finally got an hdmi output! P3a.. Questions

[NoBiffBetter]

Hey guys, so ever since I got my p3a I have been wanting the hdmi output for it.. Mostly for two main purposes .. One is because in the summer time I will use my 32" smart tv and put it out on my porch as I fly around the naiborhood and watch it live on the tv... The other main reason is for goggles ..

I'm thinking about getting the fat shark v2 or v3 if I can find a nice used set somewhere.. Because brand new they are very expensive, too much for me to afford right now.

My question is, because I have the advanced and not the pro model, and the bit rate is obviously much lower, how big of a difference will the pixilation be? I'm assuming on the goggles it wouldn't be much worse than the pro? But I'm assuming when I display it onto the 32" flat screen that I will see quite a bit more pixelation compared to a pro? Right now I just use my iPad mini and i really don't see much pixilation at all.. Only once and awhile when the camera is auto adjusting .. Often I will just click around on the screen till I get the camera adjusted where I want it and use the AE lock, Iv noticed this helps tremendously with the pixelation and how often you see it and how much you see when it happens.

Also I installed the hdmi unit last night and it was really simple and fun to do.
I tested it out last night and noticed the new hdmi unit on the controller got pretty darn warm over a period of 30 min or so.. -I wasn't flying just had the quad sitting there messing with the camera settings.. I never really noticed my stock unit getting that warm.. Although I never did check it.. Basically I just laid my fingers on the hdmi unit and noticed it was pretty warm.. I'm assuming it's normal because there is a lot more circuitry for the new hdmi board as there was for the old one, also it's doing a lot more than just sending one single video feed. So I'm assuming this is also why it gets a little warm? But I was just curious if any of you had noticed the same thing ..

My last question is, since I am new to goggles.. Which ones should I get? My buddy has v3 goggles that I tried and really liked but they are so darn expensive.. I was wondering if if there are anything cheaper that would still display a decent/good quality image when worn on your eyes.. I don't want something super cheap/junk.. But I don't need anything super high end. I'm new to the whole goggles seen and need some help finding some that are good for a decent price so any tips from you more experienced guys in this field would be greatly appreciated.

I was looking to spend between 100$-250$ give or take a little but in that price range ..

Also has anyone else tried the AE lock? What do you mainly use it for? Just getting the correct color definition you are looking for? Cuz what's adjusting when you click around on the screen is the shutter speed as well as the frame rate mainly.. And I noticed a huge difference as I mentioned above with pixilation .. Like I said I will get it where I want it, then lock the AE, and because the camera isn't constantly adjusting/refocusing, it doesn't have to work as hard, thus giving you a much much better live fpv, with MUCH less pixilation..

I'm curious if anyone else has tried doing this, I founded and tested it on my own, and from the tests I have done it seems to really work nicely for getting rid of all that nasty pixilation ..

Is this ok to do? Or is it gonna make my recorded video look bad? I havnt really noticed any bad video yet when reviewing it off my sd card.. What's nice is you don't have a bunch of really light images, and then have a bunch that get really dark.. I don't know how well this would work if you were in a ton of darkness , cuz the whole video may just appear really dark.. But idk cuz I havnt tried it at dawn yet.


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[alokbhargava]

So many questions in one post. Its always better to separate them out as different members have different expertise in different areas.

Anyway, let me try to answer you:

HDMI output in my experience is better than what you see on your tablet and it won't make much of a difference on goggles with lower resolution than 720p. But as the distance increases you might see deterioration of the quality which could be easily seen with P3A compared to P3P which can operate on higher bit rate. But you can't do much as you get whats transmitted to you.

if you are looking for a cheap solution, you don't need HDMI module in that case, use Litchi FVP directly on $30 VR goggles. That would give you an idea about VR experience and I am sure after that you will decide what to buy. These days Avegant Glyph is available for $439 and is far superior to all other goggles in that price range.

AE lock with not adjust exposures based on the light conditions. If you move from say low light to dark in auto mode, it takes time to adjust exposure and you miss some good quality shots. Obviously under exposure exhibits more pixelation.

Once you take a video of your mission, you need to edit it and during that process you need to decide whats to be kept, whats to be rejected, what should be the size of each clip and various sequences. thats an art and skill. App professionally done videos are edited first and then released.

 

[NoBiffBetter]

So many questions in one post. Its always better to separate them out as different members have different expertise in different areas.

Anyway, let me try to answer you:

HDMI output in my experience is better than what you see on your tablet and it won't make much of a difference on goggles with lower resolution than 720p. But as the distance increases you might see deterioration of the quality which could be easily seen with P3A compared to P3P which can operate on higher bit rate. But you can't do much as you get whats transmitted to you.

if you are looking for a cheap solution, you don't need HDMI module in that case, use Litchi FVP directly on $30 VR goggles. That would give you an idea about VR experience and I am sure after that you will decide what to buy. These days Avegant Glyph is available for $439 and is far superior to all other goggles in that price range.

AE lock with not adjust exposures based on the light conditions. If you move from say low light to dark in auto mode, it takes time to adjust exposure and you miss some good quality shots. Obviously under exposure exhibits more pixelation.

Once you take a video of your mission, you need to edit it and during that process you need to decide whats to be kept, whats to be rejected, what should be the size of each clip and various sequences. thats an art and skill. App professionally done videos are edited first and then released.

Thanks for answering some of my questions , I know I tend to ramble often when making posts and sometimes can get carried away and don't realize how much I'm asking.

So your saying I'm only gonna see the a big difference in pixilation if I go with goggles of a higher resolution than 720.. Cuz obviously at 720p it should be exactly the same if not better than my tablet screen because that's what the tablet is showing the display in.. Also you said" you will only really notice a difference when you get father away" what do you mean by that? Do you mean the farther away my eyes are from the screen in the goggles? Or the farther away the quad is from me as I fly?

Also I already have litchi, Iv had it for awhile now but I rarely use it unless I'm doing waypoints cuz I just don't like it nearly as much as the dji go app.. This is why I decided to cough up the 100$ for the hdmi module instead.. Iv already tried fpv on my buddy's fat shark v3 and loved it. Just looking for something similar to those but for around 250$ish.. I will have to look into the glyph ones you mentioned, I have been hearing about glyph more often lately so they must be pretty darn good.

So do hdmi goggles have different settings for the video quality? Or is it just gonna me 720p that comes out of the module such as my iPad screen? And just getting a higher rated hdmi goggle such as 1080 will just show more pixilation? If that's the case then I should prolly just stick with 720p goggles.. This way I don't really notice the pixilation much more than I do on my tablet.. Cuz it's really not bad at all.. I always thought that, say the hdmi out from the module was only 720, I thought that the smaller the screen, the less pixilation, and the larger the screen the more pixilation you will see, because basically that 720p will be stretched out to say a 32" tv, thus creating more /larger pixilation.

And about the AE lock.. I know moving from light to dark in auto mode will make the camera adjust the the video image, and from my experience this is when the most pixilations appear.. They appear right when you go from light to dark, or dark to light, and as the camera is adjusting this is when I see the worst pixilation.. But when I use the AE lock, it's not NEARLY as bad or as dramatic of a dark to light change.. Which makes you see much less pixilation on the screen your viewing it from.. Iv already been editing video, I always cut out the darker images, or the lighter images based on what I want my final video to look like, that's not a problem at all I know how to do all that.. I was just more curious if anyone has every tried using the AE lock for this reason only.. And how much affect it will have on my video in the end when editing ... I would assume that the images will not be auto lightend or darkened nearly as much, so when I come up on a shadow , the whole video clip will be darker there.. When I hit the sunlight, I'll see a lot more light in the video clip.. That sorta thing. Which would be fine .

Basically the best way you can help me with my question on the AE lock, because the question I am trying to ask about it is so complex and hard to even ask/explain.. If you could just give me like the definition of AE lock, like what exactly is it used for.. Why do ppl use it and in what type of environment?

Like maybe give me a scenario of why somebody may use the AE lock.. If you could do that.. Then I could answer my own question.. Cuz I know what I'm thinking but it's hard to type it out and explain it ..So, long as I know what AE lock is typically used for and why, I'm sure then I'll be able to answer my own question in regards to the AE lock.

Thanks for your time alokb.






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[Steve_in_DE]

My opinion: get the Headplay. In my opinion, the 72 degree FOV makes for a very different and better "you-are-there" experience than any Fatshark. There are threads going on right now here that talk about your options at length.

 

[NoBiffBetter]

My opinion: get the Headplay. In my opinion, the 72 degree FOV makes for a very different and better "you-are-there" experience than any Fatshark. There are threads going on right now here that talk about your options at length.

Awesome, that's what I was looking for.. Plus for the price, I feel like it's a great set to get your feet wet with..And try out fpv for realz


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